Spanish Virgins, #2 (Culebra and Vieques)

We spent the next couple of days hunkered down in the calm and tranquil Alvamodar Bay anchorage. Alvamodar is between Culebrita and Ensenada Honda (Dewey). The anchorage is very protected from all directions by the reef surrounding it.

This spacious anchorage quickly became a favorite of ours, and many other cruisers. There are about 8 mooring balls, which are all occupied in unsettled weather, with other boats at anchor.
We visited frequently prior to the arrival of our guests and found that on weekends the large sport fish yachts arrive from Fajardo. They anchor stern to the reef and appear to fish the reef at night.

On previous visits, we met up with fellow "Loopers"

Early Out and La Garza Verde. One just never knows who or when you will meet up with a previous cruising aquaintance.



Early Out at anchor





The 360 degree view here is incredible, whether it is looking toward land and the hills, the reef at low tide, Culebrita Island, or on a clear day, St Thomas in the distance. 



Tip of Culebrita from Alvamodar Bay

Weather was unsettled with wind and rain, but we spent a quiet couple of days swimming and relaxing, before being joined by Lamb Chop and friends Tim and Jan.



St. Thomas in distance



Once weather settled somewhat,  Kaos departed for Vieques, leaving Lamb Chop and crew to spend a few more days in Culebra.

Out in the open waters, we discovered that the seas were not as calm as they appeared from the anchorage. Trudi and Mike were still sleeping when we departed and did not surface until we arrived at Blue Beach on Vieques, two and a half hours later. The boat was wallowing and rolling from side to side and I was sure they would roll out of bed. Apparently they didn't, but they were ecstatic once our course changed and we approached the south shore of Vieques, putting the waves and swell on our stern and smoothing out the ride.

Blue Beach, Vieques (south shore)
The winds were still calm as we anchored off the stunning Blue Beach, in Bahia de la Chiva. The US Navy occupied the island for the past couple of decades, using the area for naval and aerial bombardment practice. In 2003 the naval exercises ceased and cleanup has been ongoing. The navy's departure left Blue Beach, their former recreation available for public use. Most beach areas have been cleared of unexploded ordinances however, some areas have signs requesting that one does not venture away from the beach since cleanup is still in progess.

A dinghy ride to shore and walk along the long, silky white sand beach followed as soon as the anchor
 was down.

Blue Beach

Once we returned to the boat for lunch, the swell was causing the boat to wallow once again, making Mike yearn for terre firma. In an effort to minimize the roll, and have the swell hit the bow, not the side, we attached a rope to the anchor chain and as it tightened, tied it to the side of the boat, pulling the bow around and making the ride significantly more tolerable. Once again, we headed to shore to walk and swim, returning as the wind and seas picked up.
Another "Kaos" moment occurred when we tried to release the side line and retrieve the anchor. The wind was strong and Kaos acts as a huge sail, with the rope ending up under the keel and bottom of the boat. We could not disconnect it from the anchor chain, nor move it away from the shafts, since it was bar taught. The only way to safely release it without damage to the running gear at this point was to cut the rope, which we did with a serated edge knife. Of course, this was our longest rope, and the one in best shape; naturally it couldn't be one of the chafed ones that need replacing, so now we add one more rope to the shopping list. Thankfully, the tension was released, rope retrieved and anchor pulled up.  We were now headed to the calm anchorage in Ensenada Honda, just a couple of miles east of Blue Beach. Once inside the reef, we tucked into the south west corner, dropped anchor and spent a quiet overnight, savouring the silence and solitude.
Next morning we are off to the beachside town of Esperanza to meet up with friends and neighbors from Port St Lucie who are enroute to the BVI's aboard their sailing catamarans.