British Virgin Islands #1

Trellis Bay, Beef Island (airport)

February 1st, we arrived in the British Virgin Islands, West End on the island of Tortola to be exact. We anchored in the bay and Captains Tim and Alan dinghied ashore to clear in with Customs and Immigration. A short while later, following a quick and painless check-in, we were underway once again, headed for Beef Island, where we would meet our guests, Alison and John, who were flying in from Detroit.

We picked up a mooring in Trellis Bay, where we could watch the flights arriving and departing on the runway immediately adjacent to the bustling anchorage.



Airport from anchorage

The air terminal is a short walk from the dinghy dock, making this a popular mooring field. Luckily we arrived early in the day, we had no problem finding a mooring ball, but by mid afternoon, there was no space available.

Trellis Bay was a pleasant surprise. We expected to find a dinghy and ferry dock and not much more. Our afternoon scouting excursion revealed a neat, eclectic little community within a stones throw of the airport terminal building, and a waterfront dotted with metal sculptures and fireballs.

Trellis Bay was a pleasant surprise. We expected to find a dinghy and ferry dock and not much more. Our afternoon scouting excursion revealed a neat, eclectic little community within a stones throw of the airport terminal building, and a waterfront dotted with metal sculptures and fireballs.

After determining which dock was available and most suitable to dinghies meeting arriving flights, we walked the sandy waterfront, visiting some unique gift shops and galleries. The waterfront includes several restaurant/bars, a cyber café, ferry terminals and a well stocked market, catering to arriving vacationers and cruisers. Trellis Bay is also known for it’s full moon parties, which we will not experience this visit.

Meeting our arriving guests was easy and hassle free, even in the dark. A quiet and restful night was enjoyed by the weary travelers.

Greeted by sunshine and no snow in sight, Alison and John were ready to join us for breakfast ashore at the Cyberspace Café.

Breakfast at Cyber Cafe

Operated by an Englishman, and advertising the “Full Monty” an English breakfast, we were somewhat surprised to find that the eggs, bacon, sausage, baked beans, and fried mushrooms was served piled on top of the toast. It certainly was filling. A little exercise was expended following breakfast as we walked the beach front and replenished some necessary provisions from the market.
A painkiller, is a rum drink synonymous with the British Virgin Islands, and with almost every pub/bar claiming to have the best anywhere, we decided that one of our missions would be to taste and judge throughout our travels.

Marina Cay (Pusser’s)

We cast off our mooring line for the 0.6 mile trek across to Marina Cay, where the challenge commenced with our first painkiller at Pusser’s Marina Cay Beach Bar.

Painkillers come in a variety of strengths, and we opted for #3. The waitress was attentive and a great sales person, convincing us to purcha`se our drink complete with Pussers souvenir tin mug. Our first painkiller was disappointing, weak and watery, and no where near as tasty as Dean’s painkillers, served at our old Boundary Creek YC in Winnipeg Beach, Manitoba. Insult was added to injury when we received the check. The drink and mug turned out to be about $15 per drink…..more learning money!

The Pusser’s gift shop on site was certainly well stocked with almost everything one might need; from logo clothing to souvenir bottles of rum, snacks etc.

Marina Cay overlooking mooring field



Marina Cay Beach

 After a dinghy tour, and swim on the beach, we returned to Kaos for happy hour and dinner aboard with John and Alison.

The Bight, Peter Island

The "Willie T"

After a leisurely morning coffee, we cast off and headed SW to Norman Island, where we picked up a mooring in the popular Bight, on the island’s NW shore. The Bight is a large bay, protected from the prevailing East winds, which meant a calm night for sleep. The Bight is best known for the infamous bar/restaurant aboard the “Willie T”
 (a floating barge in the shape of a pirate ship; permanently anchored that caters to the visiting cruising crowd). Pirates Restaurant and bar offers cruisers a beach and amenities at the east end of the bay.

We opted for some exercise and hiked the trail behind Pirates, up to the top of the bluff, where we were rewarded with a refreshing breeze and a superb view.



Overlooking the mooring field



The Bight, Norman Island





Jubilant hikers





View from top of blff



After a refreshing swim and shower, we dinghied to Willie T’s for happy hour and to view the sunset.





Willie T's dinghy dock

 Today, patrons were reasonably sedate, however drinking challenges are frequent, often resulting in varying degrees of disrobement, before patrons dive off the sterncastle.

We did witness topless women from a Canadian sailboat as they departed Willie T’s. in their dinghy. Looking at the lack of tan lines, I would say that this is a regular occurrence for these sailors.

Willie T’s proudly displays a photo album showing the high spirited antics, which Alan, John and Tim seemed to thoroughly enjoy.

A wide range of cocktails and beers are available here. Some of us drank beer, while others imbibed in house margaritas. After just a couple, our friend Jan was in high spirits (Willie T style) and rarin to go. On the short dinghy ride back to the boat, she was bound to flash everyone along the way.

You go girl!

She was pretty comfortable with her bathing suit under her shirt, but had a barrel of laughs just the same. Unfortunately, she paid dearly the next day for her few hours of fun.

Next morning, prior to departure for the next chapter in our travels, we took a short dinghy ride to see the caves at the edge of the bight.
There were a lot of snorkellers already in the cave, making it difficult to get in with the dinghy.

Cooper Island

Our next stop was the Cooper Island Beach Club in Manchioneel Bay.Again, the moorings offered some protection from the prevailing easterlies, however we did encounter some ocean swell throughout the night, causing some roll.

Fodors lists the Beach Club as one of the best island getaways, although not the most luxurious by any means. The restaurant/bar overlooks the wonderful beach, complete with in-water stand-up cocktail tables.

 We enjoyed a great lunch, overlooking the water. After our disappointment at Pussers, I asked the bartender if his painkillers were good, and he gave me a sample to try. That cemented our decision to return for happy hour,  which was enjoyed out on the very comfortable open air patio. Painkillers were two for $6 between 4 and 6pm. They were delicious, and  in my humble opinion, they were the best tasting on the trip, and certainly great value. Cooper Island Beach Club wins my vote for best all round facility.