Isla Caja des Muertes

Isla Caja des Muertes



Apprroaching Coffin Island

 Another stunningly beautiful island, located on Puerto Rico’s south shore, about six miles southeast of Ponce. Isla Caja des Muertes, also referred to as Coffin Island, some say because of it’s wedge-like coffin shape, while others say the island got it’s name from the tragic love story of a Jose, a Portuguese pirate, who fell in love with a married woman from Curacao. Shortly after her husband died, they were married but she was killed in an attack shortly thereafter. Stories say that he had her embalmed and hid her coffin in a cave on Isla Caja des Muertes. It was rumored that Jose had treasure hidden in the caves, but it appears that his treasure was his bride. Her body was found years later and returned to St. Thomas for burial.

 Aside from the morbid story, this island is stunningly beautiful and tranquil, especially during the week days.
There are a few mooring balls available in several areas, mostly along the western end of the island and anchoring is also reasonable there. Park Rangers man the island and daily ferry service is available from Ponce. Outside of the ranger station and ferry dock area, there are no services available.

This was our third attempt to visit the island. Previous attempts in January found the anchorage untenable, due to wind, waves and ocean surge. Thankfully, we met with success on our third attempt. It was so tranquil and beautiful, and of course calm; we decided to spend three glorious days. We were ready for some R and R
after the fiasco encountered by Kaos and Lamb Chop while in Salinas, but that's another story.

The lighthouse atop of the island was built in 1897 and is one of eighteen built by the Spanish. It is operational today, although looking a bit tired.
We walked the trail (about a mile) up to the lighthouse and the top of the island. Although not overly challenging, the trail is certainly not for small children or anyone with any physical impairment.



Jaguey tree (wild fig)

The landscape is rugged and arid with a diversity of vegetation.

The Jaguey is a wild fig tree that wraps itself around other trees, eventually strangling them.
Various species of cacti or succulents are prevalent, yet lush green spring growth and flowers are evident on some trees.




Cacti on the trail

 



Lonely spring blossom

 

 

Part of the trail up to the lighthouse is shaded and parts are exposed volcanic rock, exposed to the sun and elements. The view from the top was incredible on this clear, sunny morning.

Last part of the ascent

The views of the island and mainland as we ascended were gorgeous, and were totally awesomewere from the top.

Entrance to lighthouse

Well worth the time and energy to reach the summit!

Prior to our hike up to the lighthouse, we circumnavigated the small island before the winds kicked up. Seas were calm all around the island and it was a perfect morning to be out sightseeing in the dink. At the eastern tip of the island we found numerous floating cones displaying the dive flag, although it almost looked like a slalom ski course.

 The waters were shallow and coral reefs evident beneath the surface. We carefully navigated through the area. The orange dive moorings and floating cones all looked new, and we assumed that a dive site was being set up.

 Later we encountered several small boats and jet skis roaring around and witnessed numerous boats and jet skis while atop of the island.

A local sailor later told us that the Governor was visiting the underwater park, which certainly accounted for all the small boat and jet ski activity, as well as the small plane buzzing overhead.

We tied to a mooring ball, where the water was crystal clear and shallow enough for both Alan and Tim to dive and scrape the myriad of accumulated growth from the bottom of the boats. This activity attracted numerous fish who came to see what all the activity was about, and if there was a free meal to be had.

Alan donned some old work swim trunks, and I think gravity has affected his girth, and when he dove under the water, his trunks slipped, exposing his tan line and (plumber butt). It was quite hilarious from my vantage point.

The rest of our time was spent enjoying some R and R on the beach and in the water. Of course, this was interspersed with happy hours and beach BBQs. Unfortunately, Susann’s skin cancer means she has to be covered most of the time and limit sun exposure. This kind of beauty is a rarity and occasional exceptions are accommodated.


Dogs anyone?



Chef Tim at work


 After three glorious days, it was time to depart and head to Ponce for a brief stop to visit Customs, before continuing to La Parguera for a few days while we wait for Tim’s replacement windlass (winch