The Exumas, North Bound, May 2011

Georgetown, Exumas
Elizabeth Harbour was much quieter than our previous visit in December. The snowbirds have migrated north for the summer, leaving about 60 or 70 boats at anchor, a far cry from the winter peak of close to 500.

Our overnight stop in Georgetown was short but with unexpected events:
Arriving in Elizabeth Harbour just before noon, we anchored in front of the Chat-N-Chill, and headed ashore for lunch.



Chat-N-Chill anchorage

Our timing was good, arriving just ahead of the visitors coming in by boat and water taxi for the Sunday pig roast.

Shortly after lunch, we were approached by the captain of S/V Moon Shadow, asking if we were from “Kaos”. Once confirmed, he thanked us for rescuing him and Moon Shadow in 2008, by pulling him free, when his boat was aground, just outside of Boca Raton, Florida. It was nice that he remembered our good deed, especially since it was almost three years later.

Later in the afternoon, Alan and Tim took the dinghy to town and stopped for a drink at a local bar, where they were approached by a couple of Canadians, asking where they were from? Following the usual banter, Alan discovered the young woman he was chatting with, was from his home town of Sarnia, and turned out to be one of his younger sister’s teenage friends.

Lisa & Vince aboard Kaos

 Lisa and her husband Vince visited with us later aboard Kaos, where a phone call was made to sister Gil, reconnecting her and Lisa after many years.

One just never knows when, where or how paths may cross, but rest assured they will!
I am repeatedly surprised at how small a world we live in, and how frequently we unexpectedly connect with people from a past era, and once again, this was no exception

After a quick trip to town for fresh produce, we were underway once again,.bound for Little Farmer’s Cay, one of our favorite stops.

Little Farmer's Cay
We arrived in Little Farmer’s Cay about 4pm, after a perfect day of cruising the Exuma Bank from Georgetown. The seas were flat calm, with light winds from the SW; cruising days don’t get much better than this!



The cut

 As we navigated the current through the cut, we saw a sport fish yacht, who cut the corner and ran aground. Attempts to pull him free were unsuccessful, so he was left to wait for the tide to rise and float him off.
Once the anchor was set, we headed ashore for Happy Hour at Ali’s Bar. As we docked the dink at the pier, we met one of Ali’s brothers, who was cleaning conch, and gave us a quick demonstration.

Ali’s Bar has to be one of the tiniest bars I’ve been in, with maybe six bar stools around the perimeter of the room and no room for a table,but it is big on character, warmth and friendship. Before we could order, Ali poured a shot of vodka for “his friends” as he said. Jan declined and the rest of us joined Ali with “bottoms up”. Alan wasn’t sure he could keep it down and quickly chased it with a beer, and Tim apparently has an allergy to vodka but took it like a man and Susann just downed it like a pro!

Ali received a phone call, so Tim jumped right in and certainly enjoyed his time behind the bar. Upon Ali's return, Tim proudly purchased and poured Ali a drink.

 

Tarbender Tim

 Later that afternoon, we met three of Ali’s beautiful grandchildren.  
Before heading back to the boats, we also had the privilege of meeting elementary school teacher, Devi Jagroo and her husband, the School Principal. We were blown away by the passion and dedication of these two committed teachers, and were delighted when we were invited to visit the school the following morning, an invitation we gladly accepted.
As we were departing, Jan mentioned to Ali that she was looking for a fresh coconut, and before we knew it, two coconuts, fresh off the tree arrived at the bar, complete with the outside husk removed, and ready to eat.

Little Farmer's Cay School Visit
After meeting Farmer’s Cay elementary teacher Devi Jagroo and her husband, Principal Jagroo, it was an honour and delight to visit them at the school and see them immersed in their element. It is evident that their teaching profession is truly their passion. Little Farmer's Cay is lucky to have this caring and dedicated couple educating the island's youth and future residents.
The previous evening, we made the decision to donate Susann's aging, but functioning lap top computer to the school, along with some school supplies that we have been carrying for such an appropriate recipient.

Upon arrival, we were greeted and welcomed by Principal Jagroo, who introduced us to the senior class, preparing to write a national exam.



Seniors



Principal Jagroo believes it is never to early to learn, and although the seniors are not required to write this exam until next year, he believes in getting the students prepared and understanding what is expected of them.

In the kindergarten class, we met a delightful four year old named Nathan, who along with his sister, recited poems learned for the Bahamas competition.



Kindergarten



The adjudication team from Nassau were expected the next day to see and hear just what Little Farmer's Cay students have been working on all year. In keeping with Principal Jagroo's theory that it is never to early to learn, he told us that Nathan had been comming to the school with his Grandmother; an employee, who was looking after him and brought him with her to work everyday since he was two. The Principal felt it was time to get him a uniform and enroll Nathan in the kindergarten class. He is a bright, energetic and articulate youngster, who I am sure is destined to be a leader.

Junior Class

Ali's grandson, Spencer is also in the kindergarten group, and though somewhat more reserved than Nathan, is destined to be a trend setter and leader. The only girl in the kindergarten group, when asked what she would like to be when she grows up, said "I'm going to be a big girl, like Kenya". Kenya, is one of Ali's grand children and the only other female student in the school.


Teacher, Devi Jagroo



The previous evening, Ali told us that Farmer's Cay is very fortunate to have the Jagroos teaching at the school. The island's previous teachers had not been so committed, nor encouraged the children to compete off the island. He felt it was important that the students learn manners and respect in addition to their academics. This was clearly demonstrated when we walked into the classrooms and the children stood and all said "good morning".

The Jagroos teach students from kindergarten through grade 8, with 13 boys and 2 girls attending tha All Age School. They were proud to show their local crafts and display the many trophies awarded to the school. As a thank you for our visit, we were invited to pick something from the student's craft table.

This was a most enjoyable and rewarding morning, visiting this enriched learning environment. Thank you to both the extraordinary teachers and students for their friendship and hospitality. We encourage all visitors to Little Farmer's Cay to take the time to visit the school. You will be glad you did.

We walked the short distance back to the pier to board the dink and head back to the boats. As we headed to Black Point Settlement, just eight miles away, we bid au revoir to Little Farmer's Cay, but not goodbye. We'll be back someday soon, and spend a couple of weeks in this special place, that feels like home.

Black Point Settlement

Black Point Settlement welcomes cruisers, and encourages participation in the after school reading and homework program. This visit was short due to the gusty west wind, which made the anchorage rolly, hence no visit to the school.  

 

This was Tim and Jan's first visit, so we walked town, visiting and chatting with the local women, sitting outside enjoying the breeze as they braided thae palms into long strips, that are shipped to Nassau to make baskets, hats etc.

The town appeared quiet, and other than the small grocery store, not much was open.The restaurants were closed, but one of the local women called someone to open up for lunch.

After lunch, the sky looked like rain was iminent, and thunder could be heard in the distance. Quickly, we headed back to the boats, weighed anchor and headed for the protection and calm of Pipe Creek, just a few miles north.

Exumas, Northbound, part 2

Pipe Creek to Shroud Cay

South winds at 12 – 15 knots greeted us this morning. This combined with the surge as high tide neared; made for a bouncy anchorage. Originally, it was our intent to spend the day exploring by dinghy, but wind and sea conditions combined with the swift current that runs through Pipe Creek meant no swimming off the back of the boat, so we elected to head out to the calm of Warderick Wells north mooring field. Unfortunately, as a result of weather, the north moorings were all occupied so we continued on to Shroud Cay, one of our favourite cays.
Whatever happened to the prevailing easterlies that were to provide smooth sailing for our return journey?




Shroud Cay
Upon arrival in Shroud Cay, we found the mooring field deserted as a result of sea conditions, which would have made for an uncomfortable stay. We chose to move slightly north, hiding behind the next point . Although still choppy, swinging on the anchor was much better alternative.
Once settled, we headed to the beach, a final BBQ was the order of the afternoon.

On the beach we encountered one lonely gull, who was not one bit shy, but was well mannered and did not bother us to be fed. After quite some time, a couple more arrived and decided to take up residence aboard our dinghy.......and much to Alan's dismay, you know what that meant......sh..t!

The following morning brought a stormy start to the day with black thunder heads looming all around us, but the wind has shifted to the East, making the anchorage more comfortable.



Stormy morning

 The storms dissipated about mid morning with no rain and no free boat wash for us, so Susann got out the hose and washed the salt off boat.
The morning was spent tracing our fresh water leak, then cutting a hole in the fiberglass shower cabinet to replace the cracked and crumbling water line.....no easy button on this boat!
Sadly, today is Lamb Chop’s last day with us, before heading back to Marathon, where they will leave the boat for the summer, before heading home to Fenlon Falls, Canada.

We spent a last afternoon on our own private beach, and later enjoyed a last supper aboard Lamb Chop.
Susann and Jan's scouring for beach tresures found some live baby conchs, lots of live sand dollars, which we returned to their natural environment, and finally, lots of uninhabited (dead) sand dollars, which they carefully stowed to take home.

 Tim grilled some superb Alaskan halibut (gift from friends in Tortola)which was delicious, and  none of us needed any coaxing for fudge brownies and ice cream for dessert. To quote Jan, “yummmm”.

Adios Amigos, farewell Lamb Chop

After six months of travelling as buddy boats, it feels strange, and sad to watch as Lamb Chop departs Shroud Cay in the Exumas bound for Chub Cay and then on to Marathon, Florida.

Farewell Lamb Chop

 

Buddy boats

Kaos is heading East out into Exumas Sound, the deep blue younder, for the six hour run to Rock Sound Harbour, Eleuthera. Travelling conditions today are good, light Easterly wind with one foot chop on the nose, which makes for a smooth ride.

The Jumentos, Bahamas - May 2011

Raccoon Cay

As we approach House Bay, we see three boats at anchor, two power and one sail boat. So much for remoteness!

Later in the day, we went exploring the nearby cays in the dinghy. Once again, beautiful, crystal clear waters. As we neared Johnson Cay (reported as the best beach in the Jumentos) we saw thousands of small dark things, about the size of a dime, in the water. At first it looked like mini pieces of weed, but upon closer examination, we discovered they were tiny brown jelly fish. There were thousands, maybe lots more occupying at least one square mile.

Johnson Cay Beach

Johnson Cay beach was as beautiful as described in the cruise guides. Fine white sand wrapped all around this large, crescent shaped beach. Two sailboats were anchored in the bay, with room for several more. We beached the dinks and enjoyed a refreshing, leisurely swim.

After departing Johnson Cay, we spied several large rays, swimming out in the shallow waters.

Happy hour and sunset were enjoyed on the beach at House Bay, Raccoon Cay.

  

House Bay



The chairs were set up on the sandy spit. exposed by the falling tide. Alan was first to sit down and as he did so, his chair just sank deep into the wet sand, requiring us to lend a hand and help haul him out of the sand.

Flamingo Cay
Flamingo Cay is the largest of the northern cays in the northern Jumentos, and as it turned out, my favorite Cay.
 We anchored in Two Palms Bay, named for the lonely palms on the beach. Some guide books call it three Palms Bay, but somewhere along the way, a casualty occurred, leaving only two palms. The beach is gorgeous, with deep water all the way in.

Boys go for dinghy explore late afternoon to check out the cave, just south of the anchorage and the two conspicuous rocks at the southern end of the island, where it is reported that young sharks seek refuge, especially during the months of May and June. Just prior to dusk, five juvenile sharks came and took shelter under our boat. They were swift as lightening when Susann threw some food scraps overboard, with the larger one almost leaping out of the water to reach the food.

Next day, while the waters were calm, Alan scraped the green beard from the boat‘s waterline, while Susann was on shark watch. No sign of any this morning, just a small ray swimming beneath the boat and keeping a watchful eye on Alan, and vice versa.

It was a beautiful, clear sunny day with light and variable winds; a perfect day for a BBQ lunch on the beach, located a mile or so away, in the northern bight of the island. Lunch was followed by a lazy afternoon of swimming and enjoying this tropical gem.



North Beach, Flaming Cay













Alan and Tim headed down the beach to snorkel one of the reefs, but were greeted by an approaching large reef shark, so they quickly high- tailed it back to shore.

Late afternoon, the skies darkened in the distance, and for a while the wind picked up from the West, not a favorable direction when anchored on the West side of the island. As a result of squalls circling the area, swells rolled in from the west, and combined with increased wind, we rolled and the boat felt like a bucking bronco until the squalls passed. The wind swung around to the NNE, but unfortunately the swell remained from the West, hitting us on the side and making for a noisy and uncomfortable night.

May 13, 2011
Today is a special anniversary for us. It was sixty years ago that Susann was baptized in the UK, and Alan’s mother, Anne was her God Mother. Alan, age three, attended the ceremony with his parents, and upon return to the Williams home, Susann was laid on a blanket on the floor, while the adults visited. Alan, not being the center of attention, proceeded to wander over to where baby Susann lay, and kicked her. He says, even to this very day, he is still paying for that action!. It was also May 13, 1967, when Alan and Susann met again in Sarnia, Ontario Canada. Both families emigrated to Canada, and when Alan was home on leave from the air force; and at the insistence of his parents, called Susann and offered to show her the sights of Sarnia, little that they were…..the rest is history. Here we are; still married after all those years, enjoying paradise here on Flamingo Cay.

The morning was cloudy and still breezy, so we opted to make today a travel day, and head north to Water Cay, in search of a calmer anchorage.

Prior to departure, Alan and Tim took Jan and I to see the drive-in cave.

You can dinghy directly into the large, high ceilinged cave. Daylight is visible through the opening at the rear of the cave, as well as streaming through the hole in the high ceiling.

 It was an interesting experience. The water depth inside is about 2-3 feet, and surprisingly, there were no fish visible in the crystal waters.
After the usual photo opportunities, we continued to the southern end of the island, where there was a huge nest atop of one of the large dome shaped rocks. The nest appeared to be close to six feet in diameter. Unsure of what species it belonged to; Alan named it the terradacto nest!

As we approached the dome rocks and bay beyond, we spotted two sharks swimming in the shallow waters along the rocky waters edge. At first, just the dorsal fin was visible above the water, but the tail fin appeared periodically, giving us an indication of their size.
 

This area is known to be a shark nursery, with juvenile sharks visible during May and June. These two were certainly larger than the ones that appeared beneath our boats at dusk, and I would estimate them to be 5-6 feet in length. We approached slowly, but were unable to get a good close up look at them. Needless to say, we will not be swimming here today.




We returned to the boats and prepared for our departure and the bumpy ten mile voyage north to Water Cay.




Water Cay

Water Cay is actually two cays that, until recently were separated by a narrow cut. The cut has since closed, with a sand bank across its path, which was very evident at low tide.

A channel may still be visible at high tide. Who knows, the next storm may open it once again.

We tucked in on the NW tip of the island, and once again, were greeted by several boats in this supposed remote anchorage.
Commercial fishing is prevalent in these waters, especially the NW anchorage, which is a favorite spot. There were four fishing boats at anchor and most trailed small skiffs that went out during the day and returned late in the afternoon to clean and process the catch.

The cruise guide stated that this anchorage can be busy and sometimes noisy, especially if the fishermen work through the night, which did not appear to be the case on this visit. Including our boat, there were also two power boats and two sailboats in this busy anchorage.

So much for remote and deserted anchorages here in the Jummentos! We have seen at least two other boats at every stop. It is however, prime cruising time (May & June) for this area.

Night one in the anchorage was rolly. The wind was light from the north, with moderate swell from the west, which slapped against the side of the boat, resulting in a restless night.
 Morning brought an east wind, calm seas and sunshine and dinghy exploration of this uninhabited cay. We visited, what was the cut through the cay, and at low tide, found it sanded over.
On approach we saw a shark circling the shallow waters over the live reef.




Shelling

 A walk along the sandy shore and craggy rocks found abundant shells and fossils in the rocks.
Sea urchins and anemones (I think) were in the tiny rock pools, left by a falling tide. Jan and I departed the beach with new treasures.

Fossils in the rocks

We visited a wrecked fishing boat on the east side of an unnamed cay at the southern entrance to Water Cay. Perhaps this is what happens if one tarrys to long and puts down roots here.

The waters here in the Bahamas are crystal clear and every shade of blue imaginable. Certainly, some of the most beautiful cruising anywhere! These waters remind me of seeing Bombay Sapphire gin, through the turquoise glass.

A BBQ chicken dinner aboard Kaos for all, and another magnificent sunset was a perfect finish to another fun day.

Unfortunately it is time to bid farewell to the natural, unspoiled beauty of the Jumentos and continue our trek towards home.

Water Cay to Georgetown

6:30 am anchors aweigh. Playing the tide at Hog Cay Cut with sufficient water depth (4’) for Kaos to pass through necessitated an early morning departure. Seas and winds are calm and very comfortable.

Anxious to reach the cut as soon as possible, ensuring maximum depth, we upped our speed since calculations indicated that passage through the cut would be just after high tide, with the depth decreasing on an ebb tide. We are just a couple of days away from full moon, which frequently causes tides higher and lower than normal, and we were counting on that. We encountered a south bound catamaran as we approached the cut and he radioed us with his depth findings. The channel was visible in the clear waters and depths sufficient for a smooth passage.

Ragged Island, Bahamas

Duncan Town, and Hog Cay, Ragged Island

We arrived at the Hog Cay anchorage, just across the bay from Duncan Town at 8am. Somewhat weary after another overnight crossing and days of recent travel, we were anxious for some rest and sleep. Cruise guides describe the Jumentos as remote and unlikely that one will see another boat, other than the occasional local fishing skiff. Including ourselves, there were four boats in the anchorage, and we passed another south bound sail boat on our way to Raccoon Cay.

View from Hog Cay anchorage

We met Ray and Jenna aboard S/V Night Hawk. They are headed to Luperon to meet up with good friends Ken & Edie aboard M/V Continum. Small world! These are the folks we met in Scottsboro, Alabama in 2006, and then met up again with Edie at breakfast, following produce shopping on market day in Luperon.

After a good, restful night of sleep, we took a 15 minute dinghy trip through the mangrove canal to visit Duncan Town, the only settlement on Ragged Island.

Located in the remote Southern tip of the Jummentos, Ragged Island has a population somewhere between 70 and 100, most of whom are fishermen, with a few still working the salt ponds, which are enjoying a revival, but nothing compared with the hay days of a past era. Table salt is produced here, and marketed to food stores in Nassau, the USA and Canada.



Salt ponds


The locals are not used to a lot of outside visitors, but welcome the growing number of cruisers that visit each year. Services and amenities are few and basic, with two small grocery stores, Batelco (Phone Company) office, a bakery and several restaurants, none of which operate on regular hours, except one, next to the school, which seems to open most days for lunch. Most businesses will be happy to provide services if pre-arranged. Internet is available in the air conditioned Batelco office ($5 per 30 minutes). We later heard a passing sail boat say that the school has a lovely air conditioned room, where the headmaster will allow visitors use of the internet at no charge.
Fuel is not readily available here. Residents purchase their fuel in 45 gallon drums, which are delivered by the mail boat. The shallows surrounding Duncan Town mean that the mail boat anchors out in the bay and small boats come out through the mangrove channel to ferry goods back into town.

A new airport and runway have recently been built and the former sand roads all paved. A pier/marina is in the process of being built and will support the Bahamian Defense Force, soon to be located here on Ragged Island. Duncan Town is looking quite affluent, in spite of the numerous small houses boarded up.

Southside Bay is home to “The Eagle’s Nest”, a restaurant/bar operated by Percy Wilson, which is located next to the airport, about a mile out of town. Percy’s Eagle’s Nest is a main attraction on the island, with the crashed DC3 perched atop of the building and housing some tables and chairs in the cockpit for thirsty and curious patrons. Unfortunately it has been closed for renovations since 2010 and was still closed during our visit, but Percy did meet us at the local restaurant for lunch. He is an interesting and entrepreneurial man with vision, and has his hand in many ventures in both Duncan Town and Jamaica Cay. He works hard to help maintain the integrity and island’s culture and history.

A relaxing afternoon was spent at Middle Pen Beach, the next cove to the north of Hog Cay anchorage.

The long white sand beach was strewn with conch shells from locals fishing here. Walking the beach, Jan and Susann combed the area for the best looking shells to make a new conch horn to sound at sunset. We refreshed our hot bodies in the cool waters, not venturing far from shore or the watchful eyes of Tim and Alan because there were two large barracudas lurking nearby, keeping a watchful eye on these visitors, invading their territory.
 Once again, a great BBQ lunch was enjoyed.
Life is good!

Bahamas Bound 2011

Luperon, DR to Great Inagua, Bahamas
At 6pm we bid farewell to Luperon as we headed NW for the 160 mile run to Great Inagua, Bahamas. Wind and sea state are forecast to be reasonable with a NE swell and winds about 20 knots overnight from the ENE. We are just four hours into the trip as I write and other than minor cork screwing as the waves hit the rear starboard quarter of the boat, it is a much more comfortable ride than our trip from Puerto Rico to Luperon. The Captain seems to be faring much better also.


The coastal cliffs and hills were stunning along the Dominican north coast, as the sun slowly set; highlighting the natural beauty as it slowly sank into the ocean. We were all sorry to bid adios to Luperon and its warm welcoming people.


We did have a bit of a scare about ninety minutes out of Luperon, when Lamb Chop, our buddy boat radioed us to say that he had hit something and the boat was vibrating badly with speed restricted to 8 knots. It always seems more traumatic when events happen at dark. Fortunately, whatever Tim hit or picked up came loose when he put the engines in reverse. All in all, a reasonably calm crossing.

Great Inagua, Bahamas

Arrived,in Matthew Town, Great Inagua on Saturday May 7th. As one approaches the island, two landmarks are visible from afar, the white salt mounds, and Great Inagua's lighthouse, one of only two manually operated lighthouses in the Bahamas.

Lamb Chop headed into the harbor to refuel, while Kaos dropped anchor outside the harbor entrance and headed into shore by dinghy for Customs and Immigration clearance.
Lamb Chop was unable to refuel until he had completed his in clearance, and authorities were insistent that Kaos come into the harbor, or be denied entry. The harbor entrance was narrow, shallow and very surgy, but we complied, even though our only serviceable set of propellers were at risk.
The two captains headed in to visit Customs & Immigration, and just as other cruising sailors, returning to the Bahamas with a valid cruising permit, we all had to cough up another $300 because the boat departed Bahamian waters. This was not our understanding when we entered the Bahamas November 2010. It appears that the rules have changed, or someone's interpretation has. Will research further at a later date, meanwhile, we paid up. This change means that cruisers  headed south and returning within twelve months will now have to purchase a cruising permit for each leg, south bound and again north bound. For us, this was a $600 hit. Once Cuba opens up for cruisers, it will likely provide a substantially reduced cruising alternative for south bound cruisers.

The overnight cost to tie up at the town dock was $10 , no services available, and although the harbor experienced surge, it calmed considerably at night and on that particular day, was a preferable alternative to the swell and roll outside of the harbor.
While the captains were away doing their in clearance at Customs, Jan and I met Henry Nixon, Park Ranger, who assured us that the boats would be safe in Matthew Town. Kaos enjoyed a peacful nights sleep, but unfortunately Tim and Jan were abruptly awakened about 10 pm when two youngsters jumped onto the bow of their boat. Startled and shaken, Tim put the run to them and they were off on their bikes in a flash. We are confident that they were likely two young lads daring each other to jump on to the boat.

Matthew Town's major employer is the salt giant, Morton. Most of the locals are employed there and the town and its residents appear more affluent than many other Bahamian islands.

Certainly the newer vehicles around town demonstrate prosperity. Morton's corporate contribution is evident with the well lit ball field, paved roads and team sponsorship. Friday evening was the debut of a new softball team. They now have the girls, mothers and now the grandmothers. We were invited to witness the fun, but alas, after another long voyage, we were unable to stay awake past 7pm.

At 8am on Saturday morning, Ranger Henry Nixon arrived to be our tour guide to visit the pink flamingos, which now number about 50,000 here on Great Inagua.
Upon our return to town, we visited the well stocked grocery store, and finally found the Cozy Corner Restaurant, where a kind neighbor called and asked them to open up to feed four hot and weary visitors. Menu was very limited due to the supply boat being delayed.
After a quick visit to Great Inagua, Jan and Susann got to cross pink flamingos off their bucket list. Weather conditions were reasonable and we departed Matthew Town about 3pm, bound for another overnight run (17 hours) to Duncan Town, the only community on Ragged Island.and the Jumentos
.

Luperon, Dominican Republic

Captain Steve's Place

Cinquo de Mayo, adios amigos
Rustic as Luperon is, it and it's people have captured our hearts, just as it has for many other cruisers; some of who, never leave.
This evening we depart Luperon for Great Inaugua, southern Bahamas. The crossing will be another overnighter, but conditions appear to have improved and should be more comfortable than our ride from Puerto Rico. We expect to arrive in Matthew Town, Great Inagua about 2pm on Friday.

Our last morning in Luperon commenced with breakfast ashore at Steve's and included a free, pre-breakfast daquari. First time I've had a daquari with breakfast, but this trip has seen many firsts.



Breakfast daquaris at Steve's



There are many interesting cruiser hang-outs here in Luperon, where everyone is very personable and hospitable. From day one, we felt a sense of belonging, both from the locals and the local cruisers. We certainly have dined out much more than usual. Prices are so inexpensive and food is great value.

Today (Tuesday) we went into town before 8am to visit the produce market, which visits once a week. It was a soggy morning as a result of the overnight down pours and the uneven streets and pot holes were a muddy mess. It appears that no-ones spirits were dampened by the rain. Fresh produce is plentiful and very reasonable from the street vendors.


Sunday, May 1st
We are sitting in Captain Steves, a local cruisers hangout, located on Calle Duarte, the main street, under the large tiki roof, enjoying inexpensive local food and drowning our sorrows in inexpensive beer, after all the upheaval. A full meal for four at Capt. Steve's Place, along with six large beers (650ml, served in a cooler with handle) all for $18, including tip!



Fish special 100 pesos

Captain Steve was a cruiser for years and now with the help of his wife Annie, offers full service to fellow cruisers, including good inexpensive food and bar service, laundry service, pool and foosball tables, swimming pool, showers, wifi and our favorite rocking chairs, where we have wiled away many hours on the computer and watching the world outside.


Annie working with baby Coral



Annie cooks, tends bar, waits tables does the laundry, minds daughters Stephanie and baby Coral and remains  personable and fun.

The children are very much part of the family business. On Sunday, we visited one of the small local stores being tended by a very pleasant young man, who was no more than 10 or 12. Tim was served a rum by Annie's son, carrying baby Coral. My guess is that he might be 12. It is a lifestyle quite foreign to Americans, Canadians and most Europeans.


We will enjoy Luperon until the next reasonable weather window, when we will head off to Great Inaugua, southern Bahamas.
Saturday, 29th April, arrived in Luperon, Dominican Republic following the trip from hell!
It was a 29 hour crossing from Puerto Real, Puerto Rico, with 26 of those being uncomfortable. Two hours out, winds and seas whipped up and we were taking the 8-10 feet swell on the side, with just 6-7 second period between each wave, the worst possible conditions for our boat. Being a high profile boat, we become a huge sail, rolling from side to side, which is most uncomfortable.
Alan turned increasing shades of green with seasickness finally sending him down to the cabin to hug the fan on the bed, when he wasn't hanging his head over the porcelain bowl or the side of the boat.

Susann had a harrowing night at the helm, hoping the boat would right itself each time the gunwhale touched the waves. Part way through the night, the radar and navigation system quit for a few minutes, and within ten minutes, the same happened to our buddy boat in about the same location, spooky! Later in the night, a poorly lit sail boat presented a few scary moments at the helm, unsure of just exactly was ahead of us as  as we approached in the pitch black. With the heavy seas, we were not receiving a radar paint, and until we were able to determine it was a sailboat, movinh east bound, life was tense. Finally, we arrived in Luperon and ran aground on one of the three shoals in the anchorage, destroying two propellers.....guess that is the wine budget shot for the next few months. Thankfully, Susann was no longer at the helm, just a sick and weary captain, working hard to bring us in against the wind, with waves and sun creating poor visibility. Note to self, and others, enter Luperon harbor early in the morning, before the trade winds are up, and the sun is behind you!!

Early morning in Luperon Harbor