Monday, May 2, 2011

Luperon, Dominican Republic

Captain Steve's Place
Cinquo de Mayo, adios amigos
Rustic as Luperon is, it and it's people have captured our hearts, just as it has for many other cruisers; some of who, never leave.
This evening we depart Luperon for Great Inaugua, southern Bahamas. The crossing will be another overnighter, but conditions appear to have improved and should be more comfortable than our ride from Puerto Rico. We expect to arrive in Matthew Town, Great Inagua about 2pm on Friday.

Our last morning in Luperon commenced with breakfast ashore at Steve's and included a free, pre-breakfast daquari. First time I've had a daquari with breakfast, but this trip has seen many firsts.


Breakfast daquaris at Steve's

There are many interesting cruiser hang-outs here in Luperon, where everyone is very personable and hospitable. From day one, we felt a sense of belonging, both from the locals and the local cruisers. We certainly have dined out much more than usual. Prices are so inexpensive and food is great value.

Today (Tuesday) we went into town before 8am to visit the produce market, which visits once a week. It was a soggy morning as a result of the overnight down pours and the uneven streets and pot holes were a muddy mess. It appears that no-ones spirits were dampened by the rain. Fresh produce is plentiful and very reasonable from the street vendors.


Sunday, May 1st
We are sitting in Captain Steves, a local cruisers hangout, located on Calle Duarte, the main street, under the large tiki roof, enjoying inexpensive local food and drowning our sorrows in inexpensive beer, after all the upheaval. A full meal for four at Capt. Steve's Place, along with six large beers (650ml, served in a cooler with handle) all for $18, including tip!


Fish special 100 pesos
Captain Steve was a cruiser for years and now with the help of his wife Annie, offers full service to fellow cruisers, including good inexpensive food and bar service, laundry service, pool and foosball tables, swimming pool, showers, wifi and our favorite rocking chairs, where we have wiled away many hours on the computer and watching the world outside.

Annie working with baby Coral

Annie cooks, tends bar, waits tables does the laundry, minds daughters Stephanie and baby Coral and remains  personable and fun.
The children are very much part of the family business. On Sunday, we visited one of the small local stores being tended by a very pleasant young man, who was no more than 10 or 12. Tim was served a rum by Annie's son, carrying baby Coral. My guess is that he might be 12. It is a lifestyle quite foreign to Americans, Canadians and most Europeans.

We will enjoy Luperon until the next reasonable weather window, when we will head off to Great Inaugua, southern Bahamas.
Saturday, 29th April, arrived in Luperon, Dominican Republic following the trip from hell!
It was a 29 hour crossing from Puerto Real, Puerto Rico, with 26 of those being uncomfortable. Two hours out, winds and seas whipped up and we were taking the 8-10 feet swell on the side, with just 6-7 second period between each wave, the worst possible conditions for our boat. Being a high profile boat, we become a huge sail, rolling from side to side, which is most uncomfortable.
Alan turned increasing shades of green with seasickness finally sending him down to the cabin to hug the fan on the bed, when he wasn't hanging his head over the porcelain bowl or the side of the boat.

Susann had a harrowing night at the helm, hoping the boat would right itself each time the gunwhale touched the waves. Part way through the night, the radar and navigation system quit for a few minutes, and within ten minutes, the same happened to our buddy boat in about the same location, spooky! Later in the night, a poorly lit sail boat presented a few scary moments at the helm, unsure of just exactly was ahead of us as  as we approached in the pitch black. With the heavy seas, we were not receiving a radar paint, and until we were able to determine it was a sailboat, movinh east bound, life was tense. Finally, we arrived in Luperon and ran aground on one of the three shoals in the anchorage, destroying two propellers.....guess that is the wine budget shot for the next few months. Thankfully, Susann was no longer at the helm, just a sick and weary captain, working hard to bring us in against the wind, with waves and sun creating poor visibility. Note to self, and others, enter Luperon harbor early in the morning, before the trade winds are up, and the sun is behind you!!
Early morning in Luperon Harbor

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