Ragged Island, Bahamas

Duncan Town, and Hog Cay, Ragged Island

We arrived at the Hog Cay anchorage, just across the bay from Duncan Town at 8am. Somewhat weary after another overnight crossing and days of recent travel, we were anxious for some rest and sleep. Cruise guides describe the Jumentos as remote and unlikely that one will see another boat, other than the occasional local fishing skiff. Including ourselves, there were four boats in the anchorage, and we passed another south bound sail boat on our way to Raccoon Cay.

View from Hog Cay anchorage

We met Ray and Jenna aboard S/V Night Hawk. They are headed to Luperon to meet up with good friends Ken & Edie aboard M/V Continum. Small world! These are the folks we met in Scottsboro, Alabama in 2006, and then met up again with Edie at breakfast, following produce shopping on market day in Luperon.

After a good, restful night of sleep, we took a 15 minute dinghy trip through the mangrove canal to visit Duncan Town, the only settlement on Ragged Island.

Located in the remote Southern tip of the Jummentos, Ragged Island has a population somewhere between 70 and 100, most of whom are fishermen, with a few still working the salt ponds, which are enjoying a revival, but nothing compared with the hay days of a past era. Table salt is produced here, and marketed to food stores in Nassau, the USA and Canada.



Salt ponds


The locals are not used to a lot of outside visitors, but welcome the growing number of cruisers that visit each year. Services and amenities are few and basic, with two small grocery stores, Batelco (Phone Company) office, a bakery and several restaurants, none of which operate on regular hours, except one, next to the school, which seems to open most days for lunch. Most businesses will be happy to provide services if pre-arranged. Internet is available in the air conditioned Batelco office ($5 per 30 minutes). We later heard a passing sail boat say that the school has a lovely air conditioned room, where the headmaster will allow visitors use of the internet at no charge.
Fuel is not readily available here. Residents purchase their fuel in 45 gallon drums, which are delivered by the mail boat. The shallows surrounding Duncan Town mean that the mail boat anchors out in the bay and small boats come out through the mangrove channel to ferry goods back into town.

A new airport and runway have recently been built and the former sand roads all paved. A pier/marina is in the process of being built and will support the Bahamian Defense Force, soon to be located here on Ragged Island. Duncan Town is looking quite affluent, in spite of the numerous small houses boarded up.

Southside Bay is home to “The Eagle’s Nest”, a restaurant/bar operated by Percy Wilson, which is located next to the airport, about a mile out of town. Percy’s Eagle’s Nest is a main attraction on the island, with the crashed DC3 perched atop of the building and housing some tables and chairs in the cockpit for thirsty and curious patrons. Unfortunately it has been closed for renovations since 2010 and was still closed during our visit, but Percy did meet us at the local restaurant for lunch. He is an interesting and entrepreneurial man with vision, and has his hand in many ventures in both Duncan Town and Jamaica Cay. He works hard to help maintain the integrity and island’s culture and history.

A relaxing afternoon was spent at Middle Pen Beach, the next cove to the north of Hog Cay anchorage.

The long white sand beach was strewn with conch shells from locals fishing here. Walking the beach, Jan and Susann combed the area for the best looking shells to make a new conch horn to sound at sunset. We refreshed our hot bodies in the cool waters, not venturing far from shore or the watchful eyes of Tim and Alan because there were two large barracudas lurking nearby, keeping a watchful eye on these visitors, invading their territory.
 Once again, a great BBQ lunch was enjoyed.
Life is good!