The Berry Islands

 The Berry Islands

At 6:30am, the marina was awakened with the growl and rumbling engines of Kaos and Orion, as lines were released and we edged away from the dock for the 10 hour trip across the Bahamas Bank and into Great Stirrup Cay.

The crossing was calm for most of the way, with wind and seas kicking up a little for the last 2 hours or so. As we approached Great Stirrup Cay, we were greeted by two cruise ships anchored off Great and Little Stirrup Cays. These islands are owned by Norwegian and Royal Caribbean cruise lines. Approximately 6 ships per week visit each Cay, and several thousand passengers flock ashore for a beach day on a private island. The anchorage is large and some distance from the beach areas. Other than several trains of jet skis passing, or the odd kayak nearby, this anchorage is much like any other.

Great Stirrup Cay (Norwegian Cruise Lines)

In early 2007, Kaos and crew spent several days here, hunkered down and waiting out high winds and rough seas, as a front passed through. During that time we met two resident staff from the Norwegian island. Upon this return visit, we went ashore to see if Mort and Higgy were still working on the island. They were not, but we met Kent, the property manager, who took us on a golf cart tour of the island and new facilities. Norwegian Cruise Lines have invested in excess of $30 million dollars enlarging and redeveloping Great Stirrup Cay. The changes were staggering. Five years ago there was 6 or 7 fulltime resident staff on the island, and one ship visiting each week.

Today, there are about 75 construction workers still on site and a resident staff population much greater than the original 7, residing in the newly constructed staff complex.

The island has literally been cut in two, with a waterway running between the north and south sections to facilitate tidal flushing. A marina has been dug into the island to provide safe dockage for the numerous launches that ferry guests back and forth to the cruise ship.

The beach area has been enlarged and includes a straw market, operated by locals from nearby Great Harbour settlement.

 Little Harbour & Flo’s Conch Bar

Little Harbour is a gem of a place. Magnificent colored waters, deserted crescent shaped sandy beaches, and of course, “Flo’s” quaint, unique Conch Bar is what will greet the visiting cruiser.

Today was Susann’s birthday, which was celebrated with dinner at Flo’s’ followed by brownies and ice cream aboard” Orion” with Denise and Paul.

Alan enjoyed his first swim of the trip in the crystal waters. The white shell of a sea biscuit was spotted beneath the swim platform, eight feet below. Alan dove to retrieve the shell and as he swam down, he lost his trunks, exposing his lily white butt, all the way to the bottom. He claims his middle is shrinking, causing him to lose his britches.

Waters in to Flo’s place are shallow, and one requires local knowledge, especially on a falling tide. A call on VHF 68 will ensure a safe passage in. Several mooring balls are available for shallow draft boats, but entry is advised on a mid- rising tide. “Kaos” anchored out in the deeper water and dinghied ashore for dinner. Captain “Kaos” had earlier sounded out the route, but misjudged a turn, and voila, we were aground in the dink.

For those of you that know us, this was just another Kaos moment!

Denise and Susan exited the dink and trudged over to deeper water, while Alan and Paul dragged the dink slowly to where she would float. Crisis over, we all got in and proceeded slowly over to Flo’s dock, where we knew, all eyes were on these crazy cruisers!

Sadly, Flo passed away in 2009 and the restaurant is operated by her son Chester and “Lovely”, his delightful Jamaican helper. The population of Little Harbour Cay still remains at two, although Chester’s brothers, Jimmy and Joe Darville visit often from the neighboring cays, where they provide fishing charters and fly fishing instruction.

Hunkered down off Bond’s Cay, waiting out the passage of  consecutive fronts, followed by sustained, strong winds from North through East, causing seas to build, and not safe for the 35 mile run to Nassau or Rose Island.

This morning, wind was calm and slightly south of east. Seas were forecast to be 3-4 feet with about a six second period. We decided conditions we doable, especially since another cold front is fast approaching. If we didn't try the run to Nassau today, we may be marooned here in the Berrys for several more days. Not wishing to be in Nassau over the weekend, our decision was to head out and see what Mother Nature had in store for us. After securing Kaos for choppy seas, we exited the cut, bouncing as the ocean pushed through the narrow opening. Further out in the deeper water, seas were as forecast, and more comfortable than anticipated. Seas settled somewhat as we neared New Providence Island. Today, we are bound for West Bottom Harbour, on Rose Island, where we will anchor overnight, and proceed into Nassau in the morning.