The Northern Exumas

Shroud Cay

It’s great to be back in paradise once again. Shroud Cay is one of our all-time favorite places. It is part of the “Exuma Land and Sea Park” a no-take zone, where one takes only pictures and leaves only foot prints (no fishing, shelling etc.). Shroud Cay is an island of remarkable, pristine, natural beauty, framed on the east coast by the Exuma Sound and the Exuma Bank on the west. Several crystal clear mangrove creeks cut through the island, connecting the two bodies of water.

This morning we embarked on a dinghy exploration of the northern most mangrove creek. Our departure was timed for one hour before high tide, allowing us two hours to explore and return to the boat before areas of the creek become too shallow to pass through. It was a magnificent day, the brilliant blue sky echoed the color of the crystal clear creek.

It was an awe inspiring morning, with each bend in the creek delivering scenery more stunning than the last.

After about 30 minutes, we spied a break in the coastline, where the sparkling turquoise waters of the creek met the waters of the Exuma Sound.

We pulled the dink ashore and stepped onto the softest most velvet like sand that I have ever experienced. It felt so good between the toes.

If this isn’t paradise, I don’t know what is!

We walked the length of exposed beach (high tide) and met a couple of other curious cruisers, who had found the trail up to the top of the hill, where they said the 360 degree view was awesome. We plan to return here in a couple of weeks with Alan’s brother, and a climb up the hill for a photo op is on the must do list.

On our return to the dinghy, Alan spotted a “curly tail” gecko, who unfortunately had lost his curl.

I know our younger grandsons will find this entertaining, and lots of questions will result, I’m sure!

Today was a perfect day, magnificent scenery, tranquility, fabulous weather and gorgeous beaches. Life doesn’t get much better than this. A fitting end to such a great day was happy hour on our own little beach cove, where Mother Nature had created a custom-fit wine holder out of the rock. I think we need a few more like this for the wine cellar.

The only thing missing from this picture is Tim, Jan, Lamb Chop and Woolly. We miss y’all!

Allan's and Highbourne Cays

Allan's Cay

“Kaos” and” Orion” departed Nassau Harbour Club this morning. The fuel dock at the Harbour Club was occupied by a 155’ mega speed boat (max speed 50 knots per hour and a fuel burn of more than 1000 gals per hour!), so Orion moved to the neighbouring Texaco Starport to top off with diesel. Kaos had previously fueled at Brown’s Yacht Basin, but needed to fuel the dink, since Brown’s would not do since it was up on the sundeck roof, but not a problem at Texaco. After clearing our departure with Nassau Harbour Patrol, we departed through the East harbor entrance, bound for the Northern Exumas.

Once out of the harbor, winds were blowing 15 knots from the East and we encountered 2’ waves with very short duration. “Kaos” does not like such conditions and responded with a steady side roll. Captain was slightly queasy, so with the auto pilot in nav. mode, he went below for a short nap, leaving Susann to mind the helm. Conditions improved as we reached the shallow Yellow Bank. With watchful eyes, we monitored the depths and avoided the occasional coral head. Dropping anchor in the beautiful Allan’s Cay anchorage was the end of todays 35 mile voyage.

The anchorage was home to 12 sailboats and 4 power boats that afternoon and evening, plus a visit from one of the speed tour boats from Nassau, over to visit and feed the island iguanas. As the tour boat approached the shore, iguanas came out of the brush by the dozens.

They certainly knew where to find their next meal!
Paul and Denise celebrated their arrival in the Exumas with a magnum of champagne at happy hour aboard “Kaos”.

Due to ENE winds, the anchorage became quite rolly at high tide. Between the roll, drifting aground at low tide, and a windlass failure, causing the batteries to go flat, Denise and Paul aboard “Orion” encountered a sleepless night in this normally idyllic anchoarage.

In order to maximize tide, we upped anchor an hour before high tide, so we would be sure of sufficient depths in the shallow areas over to Highbourne Cay. Drama free, we dropped anchor in the anchorage just north of the Batelco communication tower. This was a much more comfortable anchorage. However, due to surge from the cuts at either end of Highbourne Cay, we experienced some slight roll at high tide. Once again, we were not alone here. By sunset, we counted 21 boats at anchor.

It was time for a cocktail to accompany our afternoon dinghy exploration. We checked out Highbourne Cay Marina, and enjoyed a walk along the sandy beach.

Happy hour was aboard “Kaos”, reviewing routes and anchorages with Paul and Denise, prior to their morning departure to Staniel Cay.

Alan and Susann spent the day updating and editing writing assignments for Waterway Guide, which would later be emailed from Highbourne Cay Marina.

Highbourne Marina
Today we headed into Highbourne Marina, not something we have done in the past. Since we were always heading out from Allan’’s Cay to points south.
What a gem this marina and Cay is! Highbourne Cay has recently undergone many improvements and updates, including the addition of six, new, magnificent, luxury, modern cottages, complete with every modern convenience and comfort, not to mention privacy amidst local fauna.

These properties are truly first class, and if I were in residence, I would not want to leave. Check out the website at www.highbournecaybahamas.com. In addition to the six modern cottages, Highbourne has also added two Brazilian wood houses for rent, with 360 degree wrap-around decks, and believe me, the views are stunning. Our thanks to Barbara, the outgoing Island Manager, who is retiring after 14 years, and Carolyn, the incoming Island Manager, who took us on an island tour, proudly showing us the wonderful, tasteful updates, including the new dinghy dock and newly opened Xuma Restaurant, that have occurred here at Highbourne Cay.

 Besides their gorgeous beaches, new, modern grocery and liquor store, another not to miss are the sharks and rays that feed next to the fish cleaning station at the end of the fuel dock.

Highbourne is a first class resort that welcomes boats to the marina, and cruisers at anchor to the store, fuel dock, restaurant, and just to stretch their legs ashore, staying to the designated walking trails, and respecting the privacy of residents, cottage and marina guests.

Sunset was spent enjoying another unique sunset on the beach, with our wine, of course.

The Berry Islands

 The Berry Islands

At 6:30am, the marina was awakened with the growl and rumbling engines of Kaos and Orion, as lines were released and we edged away from the dock for the 10 hour trip across the Bahamas Bank and into Great Stirrup Cay.

The crossing was calm for most of the way, with wind and seas kicking up a little for the last 2 hours or so. As we approached Great Stirrup Cay, we were greeted by two cruise ships anchored off Great and Little Stirrup Cays. These islands are owned by Norwegian and Royal Caribbean cruise lines. Approximately 6 ships per week visit each Cay, and several thousand passengers flock ashore for a beach day on a private island. The anchorage is large and some distance from the beach areas. Other than several trains of jet skis passing, or the odd kayak nearby, this anchorage is much like any other.

Great Stirrup Cay (Norwegian Cruise Lines)

In early 2007, Kaos and crew spent several days here, hunkered down and waiting out high winds and rough seas, as a front passed through. During that time we met two resident staff from the Norwegian island. Upon this return visit, we went ashore to see if Mort and Higgy were still working on the island. They were not, but we met Kent, the property manager, who took us on a golf cart tour of the island and new facilities. Norwegian Cruise Lines have invested in excess of $30 million dollars enlarging and redeveloping Great Stirrup Cay. The changes were staggering. Five years ago there was 6 or 7 fulltime resident staff on the island, and one ship visiting each week.

Today, there are about 75 construction workers still on site and a resident staff population much greater than the original 7, residing in the newly constructed staff complex.

The island has literally been cut in two, with a waterway running between the north and south sections to facilitate tidal flushing. A marina has been dug into the island to provide safe dockage for the numerous launches that ferry guests back and forth to the cruise ship.

The beach area has been enlarged and includes a straw market, operated by locals from nearby Great Harbour settlement.

 Little Harbour & Flo’s Conch Bar

Little Harbour is a gem of a place. Magnificent colored waters, deserted crescent shaped sandy beaches, and of course, “Flo’s” quaint, unique Conch Bar is what will greet the visiting cruiser.

Today was Susann’s birthday, which was celebrated with dinner at Flo’s’ followed by brownies and ice cream aboard” Orion” with Denise and Paul.

Alan enjoyed his first swim of the trip in the crystal waters. The white shell of a sea biscuit was spotted beneath the swim platform, eight feet below. Alan dove to retrieve the shell and as he swam down, he lost his trunks, exposing his lily white butt, all the way to the bottom. He claims his middle is shrinking, causing him to lose his britches.

Waters in to Flo’s place are shallow, and one requires local knowledge, especially on a falling tide. A call on VHF 68 will ensure a safe passage in. Several mooring balls are available for shallow draft boats, but entry is advised on a mid- rising tide. “Kaos” anchored out in the deeper water and dinghied ashore for dinner. Captain “Kaos” had earlier sounded out the route, but misjudged a turn, and voila, we were aground in the dink.

For those of you that know us, this was just another Kaos moment!

Denise and Susan exited the dink and trudged over to deeper water, while Alan and Paul dragged the dink slowly to where she would float. Crisis over, we all got in and proceeded slowly over to Flo’s dock, where we knew, all eyes were on these crazy cruisers!

Sadly, Flo passed away in 2009 and the restaurant is operated by her son Chester and “Lovely”, his delightful Jamaican helper. The population of Little Harbour Cay still remains at two, although Chester’s brothers, Jimmy and Joe Darville visit often from the neighboring cays, where they provide fishing charters and fly fishing instruction.

Hunkered down off Bond’s Cay, waiting out the passage of  consecutive fronts, followed by sustained, strong winds from North through East, causing seas to build, and not safe for the 35 mile run to Nassau or Rose Island.

This morning, wind was calm and slightly south of east. Seas were forecast to be 3-4 feet with about a six second period. We decided conditions we doable, especially since another cold front is fast approaching. If we didn't try the run to Nassau today, we may be marooned here in the Berrys for several more days. Not wishing to be in Nassau over the weekend, our decision was to head out and see what Mother Nature had in store for us. After securing Kaos for choppy seas, we exited the cut, bouncing as the ocean pushed through the narrow opening. Further out in the deeper water, seas were as forecast, and more comfortable than anticipated. Seas settled somewhat as we neared New Providence Island. Today, we are bound for West Bottom Harbour, on Rose Island, where we will anchor overnight, and proceed into Nassau in the morning.

Nassau and New Providence Island

Arrived in Rose Island from Bond’s Cay (Berry Islands)

We arrived at Rose Island about mid-afternoon, following the 30 mile run (about four hours) from Bond’s Cay in the Berry Islands, to find it full, with eight sailboats and our two approaching trawlers. We crossed the North West Providence Channel

The following morning, we headed into Nassau, entering the harbor from the East. Missing the myriad of cruise ships docked.

We elected to tie up at then Nassau Harbour Club, where water traffic, wake and noise is substantially less than other marinas to the west. In addition, Peter, the Dock Master, who has been at Harbour Club in excess of 24 years, does his utmost to personally ensure that the needs of every cruiser are satisfied.

Harbour Club is conveniently located across the street from Harbour Bay Plaza, where one will find a Starbucks, a welcome sight to a travelling cruiser. For the price of a cup of coffee, one can have 1 -2 hours of good internet connection. The City Market grocery store is also located here, as is the “Video Stop”, where one can purchase a SIM card for an unlocked phone, which allows your cell phone to work in the Bahamas, costing significantly less for calls back to the US and local calls. Pre-paid cell phone top-up is also readily available at Video Stop.

We enjoyed lunch at the "Poop DEck" restaurant, located at Nassau Yacht Haven. Food and service were good, with a pleasant view.

Nassau is not one of our favorite stops, especially when numerous cruise ships are in harbor. The myriad of duty free shops are not our thing, but downtown Nassau does have some great historical architecture, if one chooses to push through the thousands of cruise ship visitors. We prefer to remain out on East Bay Street, well away from the crowds and focus on re-provisioning and other nautical tasks, before departing for the more remote, and beautiful Exumas chain of islands.

Bahamas 2012 - Bimini

We awoke to brilliant sunshine, a gentle, cool breeze and gin clear, crystal Bahamian waters, where everything on the ocean floor was clearly visible. Our morning coffee tasted especially good today! After breakfast, we upped anchor and headed into Alice Town on North Bimini for our inbound Customs and Immigration clearance.

The channel into Alice Town, although not well marked by bouys, but the water is generally easy to read, with the blue channel visibly evident from the surrounding white shallows and shoals. Today (Sunday), there was significant traffic in and out of the harbor. The channel, though wide, shoals quickly on either side. Vigilance and attentiveness is required, especially today, with a dredge working mid channel, to improve the approach for the arrival of a planned high speed ferry from the US.

Upon arrival into Alice Town Harbour, there are several marinas, all located on your port side.

We elected to stay at Sea Crest Marina and were greeted at the dock by Captain Pat, who provided us with the required paperwork for Customs and Immigration. The master of the vessel then heads to the Customs House, with the completed paperwork, passports for all on board and ships documentation. All other crew and passengers must remain aboard until clearance is complete, at which time, the yellow quarantine flag is taken down, and replaced by the Bahamian courtesy flag. Customs and Immigration officials in Bimini are friendly and helpful. Our cruising permit, which includes a fishing license was $300 for vessels in excess of 35 feet.

Alice Town was a delightful little town, with its bustling, single lane main thoroughfare.

The locals are warm and friendly, with everyone bidding you welcome by waving or tooting their horn. These locals are genuinely happy to have visitors, and willing to share local knowledge. January is certainly the off season here in Bimini, and it is evident that the current economy has also taken its toll. Regardless, the local vendors welcomed us into their stores and treated us with warmth and respect, whether or not we made a purchase.

Being Sunday, and off season, many of the businesses were closed. The funky, waterfront “End of the World” sandbar was open, where we enjoyed our first cold Kalik beer.

We later discovered the restaurant at the Bimini Big Game Resort and Marina, where we had an enjoyable lunch out on the waterfront deck, overlooking the anchorage to the north.  During lunch, we learned a local trick for dealing with the flies that descend as soon as food is served………Tobasco sauce shaken onto a dish seems to deter the flies. It certainly worked in this case. Lunch was walked off with a visit to nearby white sands of Radio Beach on the Atlantic side of the island, and a visit to the unique “Dolphin House”, which is totally adorned and decorated inside and out with shells and other beach treasures.

   Another magnificent day dawns here in Paradise. This Monday morning, Susann set out to meet with the folks at the Tourism Office, and update the “Goin Ashore” info for the Waterway Guide, which we have been asked to update on this voyage. They were most helpful and provided many changes and updates on activities and services on North and South Bimini.

Later, we decided to rent a golf cart to tour around the island. Not the Rolls. It was parked and looked like it hadn't run in a while.

The streets were bustling with increased activity, and we had to be ever cognizant to drive on the left hand side of the road. Although both the Kings and Queens Highways are the main roads circling the island, they are little more than a single lane, and traffic zips through at an alarming pace for such a small community.

Our sightseeing took us through neighboring Bailey Town and out to the Bimini Resort. We stopped at the local cemetery and walked the beautiful adjacent Spook Hill Beach.

On our way back through Bailey Town, we stopped at the waterfront bar at Eddie’s Bone Fishing Tours.

The bar was closed but a delightful Bahamian woman opened the Rum Shack and sold each of us a refreshing Kalik beer. She was very entertaining and passed along lots of local information.

Upon our return to the marina, we chatted with folks from Marathon, FL who were returning from a morning of fishing. They caught 5 wahoo, and speculated that the largest topped 50 pounds! As we watched them clean and filet their catch, they generously offered us some, which we gratefully accepted. Wahoo was planned for dinner, until Alan met a local diver with lobster tails for sale. After some negotiation, we agreed on a bag of both small and larger tails, which was split with friends Paul and Denise. Needless to say, lobster was the menu of choice, and the wahoo frozen for a treat sometime in the near future.

Happy hour was spent watching another magnificent sunset across on Radio Beach.

After a scrumptious feed of lobster, it was early to bed, due to a 6:30am departure across the Great Bahamas Bank to the Berry Islands the next morning.
Bimini was a warm and charming place, and one we hope to visit again sometime.

Bahamas 2012

Gulfstream Crossing Marathon – Bimini

January 7^th, 2012, “Kaos” and buddy boat “Orion” departed Banana Bay Resort in Marathon, Florida at first light for the start of a new adventure. The Bahamas are this seasons cruising destination, with the first port of call being North Bimini, where the crews will rest, and do their inbound clearance with Bahamian Customs and Immigration.

Our good friends Tim and Jan were out on the point at Black Fin Marina to wave goodbye and wish us bon voyage. It was sad to bid farewell and leave them waving on the shore. “Lamb Chop” and Tim and Jan were our buddy boat for seven months in 2011, when we travelled to the British Virgin Islands and back. It seems strange to look behind “Kaos” and not see “Lamb Chop” and it’s burgundy top. Tim and Jan are planning and preparing for an extended cruise to Hawaii, aboard a friend’s sailing catamaran.

Our Gulfstream crossing to the Bahamas was calm and uneventful, and we were ecstatic that the forecast wind and wave heights were exactly as predicted.

Waves were one foot or less with light and variable winds. Crossings don’t get any better than this !

In order to capitalize on these favorable conditions, we opted to do the 14 hour run to Bimini in one shot, since conditions were forecast to deteriorate overnight.

Dinner at sea was enjoyed watching another magnificent sunset. We never tire of this natuaral beauty, no matter how many we have seen.

This was our first visit to Bimini, and with an after dark arrival, and the approach not well marked, and wrought with shoals, we elected to head straight into Nixon’s Harbor and drop anchor for the night, where we were treated to a calm and peaceful nights sleep.

We awoke to brilliant sunshine, a cool breeze and gin clear, crystal Bahamian waters, where everything on the ocean floor was clearly visible. Our morning coffee tasted especially good today! After breakfast, we upped anchor and headed into Alice Town on North Bimini for our inbound clearance.