At 6pm we bid farewell to Luperon as we headed NW for the 160 mile run to Great Inagua, Bahamas. Wind and sea state are forecast to be reasonable with a NE swell and winds about 20 knots overnight from the ENE. We are just four hours into the trip as I write and other than minor cork screwing as the waves hit the rear starboard quarter of the boat, it is a much more comfortable ride than our trip from Puerto Rico to Luperon. The Captain seems to be faring much better also.
The coastal cliffs and hills were stunning along the Dominican north coast, as the sun slowly set; highlighting the natural beauty as it slowly sank into the ocean. We were all sorry to bid adios to Luperon and its warm welcoming people.
We did have a bit of a scare about ninety minutes out of Luperon, when Lamb Chop, our buddy boat radioed us to say that he had hit something and the boat was vibrating badly with speed restricted to 8 knots. It always seems more traumatic when events happen at dark. Fortunately, whatever Tim hit or picked up came loose when he put the engines in reverse. All in all, a reasonably calm crossing.
Great Inagua, Bahamas
Arrived,in Matthew Town, Great Inagua on Saturday May 7th. As one approaches the island, two landmarks are visible from afar, the white salt mounds, and Great Inagua's lighthouse, one of only two manually operated lighthouses in the Bahamas.
Lamb Chop was unable to refuel until he had completed his in clearance, and authorities were insistent that Kaos come into the harbor, or be denied entry. The harbor entrance was narrow, shallow and very surgy, but we complied, even though our only serviceable set of propellers were at risk.
The two captains headed in to visit Customs & Immigration, and just as other cruising sailors, returning to the Bahamas with a valid cruising permit, we all had to cough up another $300 because the boat departed Bahamian waters. This was not our understanding when we entered the Bahamas November 2010. It appears that the rules have changed, or someone's interpretation has. Will research further at a later date, meanwhile, we paid up. This change means that cruisers headed south and returning within twelve months will now have to purchase a cruising permit for each leg, south bound and again north bound. For us, this was a $600 hit. Once Cuba opens up for cruisers, it will likely provide a substantially reduced cruising alternative for south bound cruisers.
The overnight cost to tie up at the town dock was $10 , no services available, and although the harbor experienced surge, it calmed considerably at night and on that particular day, was a preferable alternative to the swell and roll outside of the harbor.
While the captains were away doing their in clearance at Customs, Jan and I met Henry Nixon, Park Ranger, who assured us that the boats would be safe in Matthew Town. Kaos enjoyed a peacful nights sleep, but unfortunately Tim and Jan were abruptly awakened about 10 pm when two youngsters jumped onto the bow of their boat. Startled and shaken, Tim put the run to them and they were off on their bikes in a flash. We are confident that they were likely two young lads daring each other to jump on to the boat.
Matthew Town's major employer is the salt giant, Morton. Most of the locals are employed there and the town and its residents appear more affluent than many other Bahamian islands.
Upon our return to town, we visited the well stocked grocery store, and finally found the Cozy Corner Restaurant, where a kind neighbor called and asked them to open up to feed four hot and weary visitors. Menu was very limited due to the supply boat being delayed.
After a quick visit to Great Inagua, Jan and Susann got to cross pink flamingos off their bucket list. Weather conditions were reasonable and we departed Matthew Town about 3pm, bound for another overnight run (17 hours) to Duncan Town, the only community on Ragged Island.and the Jumentos
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