Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Isla Culebra & Vieques, Puerto Rico

We are currently anchored in Fuladosa Bay in Ensenada Honda on Isla Culebra, conveniently located between the town of Dewey and Dakity Harbour. Many boats choose to anchor deeper in the bay, closer to town and amenities, but we have chosen to be slightly further from town, where the water is clearer, while Alan is away on a business trip to the US.

On Sunday we rented a Jeep and went exploring. The day commenced with a delicious breakfast at the colorful Mamacita's Restaurant.
Following breakfast, our first stop was  Flamenco Beach, named one of the top beaches in the world.
The water was stunning, crystal clear with a multitude of different shades of blue. The silky white sand is just what one expects to find on any Caribbean beach.

Our next stop, Punta Soldado, found us creeping down a steep, dirt track, filled with pot holes and wash outs. Once committed, we wondered where this might end. It was a voyage of discovery, and thankfully we had a four wheel drive vehicle. It seems others had a similar idea, as we returned from a walk along the waters edge, we discovered that several other vehicles had also navigated this remote track. The return, uphill climb seemed less challenging than the descent.

Next stop was Zoni Beach, on the north shore of this small island. This was one of my favorite spots, looking across to Culebrita, Cayo Norte and St. Thomas in the distance.


Following lunch, we sleuthed out the only gas station on the island, so we could fill up the Jeep and beat the end of day line-up.
 Besides being the only fuel pump on the island, it is the most inaccessible that I've encountered. One drives up to the pump and backs out, weaving around other vehicles in the lineup, and those awaiting the arrival of the ferry. We were told that a busy day can see vehicles lined up for fuel for more than a half mile.
This day closed with happy hour aboard Kaos with boat buddies Tim and Jan and Tony and Suzanne McDonald. Alan worked with Tony many years ago in Canada, and we last saw Tony in Trenton, Ontario in 1994, where he was preparing for retirement and a trip down to the islands.
It's a small world. While we were on our way to town by dinghy,  we came across Tony's boat s/v Gabra at anchor here in Dewey. Culebra has been Gabra's home port for the last ten years, and after years of cruising this area, Tony and Suzanne were happy to share their local knowledge, and some of their favorite stops. It was great to catch up and reminisce.

Bahia Marina Resort sits on the hill top, overlooking our anchorage. No marina exists. It is actually a condo style resort with restaurant, swim up pool bar and snack bar, as shown in the photo to the right. We took a walk up the hills and arrived at the pool bar for some liquid refreshment. We learned that visitors to the bar can utilize the pool, and arrangement can be made with massage therapist, Susan for a massage under the gazebo, overlooking the ocean. Hmmm, that sounds mighty inviting.
Bahia Icacos, Isla  Vieques
Our first Canadian style beach BBQ was enjoyed here on the beach.
As we sat on the beach, we witnessed interesting activity in these clear, azur blue waters. A ray jumped about three feet out of the water, a cow fish swam along the shore line, numerous turtles swam and constantly popped their heads above the water, and while cooling off in the water, we were surrounded by triple tail fish. 

This anchorage is well protected by the surrounding reefs.
The US navy used the island for amphibious assault exercises a few years ago, but the beach area is now clear. However, clean up is still ongoing inland and signs are posted, requesting that visitors not venture away from the beach, nor pick up any man made objects, since there is still a possibility of unexploded ordinances further inland.

Although not forecast, the winds continued to abate throughout the day and by late afternoon conditions had improved sufficiently for us to comfortably make the 12 mile run over to the island of Culebra. It was unanimously decided that an immediate departure would allow us to arrive prior to dark, and was a preferable plan to a 4am departure. Anchors aweigh, we're off to Culebra.

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