Upon arrival in this remote, picturesque cay, we set out for a walk to stretch our legs.
It was about a mile walk from the marina to the village, down a bumpy, sandy road. The village is small, with a population of 52. We found the sign for Kaye's Sand Bar partly hidden beneath the tress and brush. The cruise guides said this is a must stop place, and so we did just that.
On this particular afternoon the bar and restaurant were deserted. The door was open but no-one to be found. Once we found Delores, the owner of the bar, we learned that they were out of rum, and had only about 10 beers left in stock, which we finished off. A well loved and respected resident, Uncle Bo died a few days earlier and his funeral and celebration of life was held the previous day, just about depleting the inventory at Kaye's Bar. The supply boat does not arrive until Thursday, (three days hence).Consequently, our three boats decided to donate 3 cases of beer and two bottles of rum to Delores and the locals. Delores was ecstatic, and arrangements were made to deliver the supplies via dinghy the following morning.
The past two days were spent hunkered down, hiding from the unusual strong westerly winds, followed by another cool front. We rode out the weather in Sumner Point Marina, a small but quaint marina in rustic Rum Cay in the Southern Bahamas.
Due to the strong westerly winds, we remained in port, and rented a couple of golf carts so we could tour this remote but magnificent island.
Our first stop was at Kaye’s Bar, to deliver our collective donation of three cases of canned beer and two bottles of rum.
This will hopefully keep her in business until the supply boat arrives on Thursday. It felt strange making such a donation and even more strange to be making the delivery on a golf cart. The look on Delores’ (owner of Kayes) face and the sparkle in her eyes was repayment enough, and reminded us all to count our blessings and share the wealth.
As we departed the Sand Bar, Delores reminded us not to eat anything, since we were booked for a Bahamian lunch there at one o’clock.
The tour through the village did not take long. We passed the colourful and charming St. Christopher’s Church. It certainly appeared to be the best cared for and affluent building in town.
Our travels took us down the King’s Highway, which was often just tire ruts in the sand, or patches of rock face. The road followed the coast, taking us past the abandoned remains of the failed multi million dollar resort that never was. We found the abandoned sales office up on a bluff and were treated to some spectacular vistas looking out over abundant coral reefs in the brilliant blue waters.
The beaches were magnificent, soft virgin sand, caressed by sparkling crystal waters, reflecting every imaginable shade of blue. These beaches run the entire length of the island.
On the return to Kaye’s for lunch, we stopped at the Last Chance Store (the only store on the island. The store is run by Delores’ daughter Kaye and offers a limited selection of produce, shell jewellery, tee shirts, plumbing supplies and everyday staples. The Sand Bar was named after Delore’s younger daughter Kaye, when she was an infant.
As we arrived in front of Kaye’s, we could tell that she was back in business, the music could be heard from the road, and locals were at the bar drinking US canned beer and playing dominoes. Quite a different picture from one we encountered the previous day.
As we departed for an afternoon of sight seeing, Kaye danced with the boys and gave us all a big hug.
During the afternoon, we followed the paved road out to the air strip, where the paving ends and we continued on the dirt track known as Beach Road, where we encountered a few shy wild cattle; from the abandoned island settlements of a previous era. They were smaller than normal, and one could tell that they live a meager existence.
After a busy and blustery day in the sun and sand, we returned to the marina for a quiet, early night.
And Then There Were Two Boats (Rum Cay, Bahamas to Provo, Turks and Caicos)
After monitoring the weather, and meetings between the captains, Kaos and Lamb Chop departed Rum Cay at noon, bound for a 192 mile overnight run to Provo in the Turks and Caicos Islands. This decision was reached as a result of another strong front approaching that would leave us holed up for up to a week in the very remote Acklins Islands in the far Bahamas.
Unfortunately, as a result of a change in plans, we said goodbye to our dear friends aboard Toucan Dream, who will return to Georgetown, Bahamas, whilw we cast off for a 22 run from Rum Cay to Provo, Turks and Caicos Islands.
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