The Northern Exumas

Shroud Cay

It’s great to be back in paradise once again. Shroud Cay is one of our all-time favorite places. It is part of the “Exuma Land and Sea Park” a no-take zone, where one takes only pictures and leaves only foot prints (no fishing, shelling etc.). Shroud Cay is an island of remarkable, pristine, natural beauty, framed on the east coast by the Exuma Sound and the Exuma Bank on the west. Several crystal clear mangrove creeks cut through the island, connecting the two bodies of water.

This morning we embarked on a dinghy exploration of the northern most mangrove creek. Our departure was timed for one hour before high tide, allowing us two hours to explore and return to the boat before areas of the creek become too shallow to pass through. It was a magnificent day, the brilliant blue sky echoed the color of the crystal clear creek.

It was an awe inspiring morning, with each bend in the creek delivering scenery more stunning than the last.

After about 30 minutes, we spied a break in the coastline, where the sparkling turquoise waters of the creek met the waters of the Exuma Sound.

We pulled the dink ashore and stepped onto the softest most velvet like sand that I have ever experienced. It felt so good between the toes.

If this isn’t paradise, I don’t know what is!

We walked the length of exposed beach (high tide) and met a couple of other curious cruisers, who had found the trail up to the top of the hill, where they said the 360 degree view was awesome. We plan to return here in a couple of weeks with Alan’s brother, and a climb up the hill for a photo op is on the must do list.

On our return to the dinghy, Alan spotted a “curly tail” gecko, who unfortunately had lost his curl.

I know our younger grandsons will find this entertaining, and lots of questions will result, I’m sure!

Today was a perfect day, magnificent scenery, tranquility, fabulous weather and gorgeous beaches. Life doesn’t get much better than this. A fitting end to such a great day was happy hour on our own little beach cove, where Mother Nature had created a custom-fit wine holder out of the rock. I think we need a few more like this for the wine cellar.

The only thing missing from this picture is Tim, Jan, Lamb Chop and Woolly. We miss y’all!

Allan's and Highbourne Cays

Allan's Cay

“Kaos” and” Orion” departed Nassau Harbour Club this morning. The fuel dock at the Harbour Club was occupied by a 155’ mega speed boat (max speed 50 knots per hour and a fuel burn of more than 1000 gals per hour!), so Orion moved to the neighbouring Texaco Starport to top off with diesel. Kaos had previously fueled at Brown’s Yacht Basin, but needed to fuel the dink, since Brown’s would not do since it was up on the sundeck roof, but not a problem at Texaco. After clearing our departure with Nassau Harbour Patrol, we departed through the East harbor entrance, bound for the Northern Exumas.

Once out of the harbor, winds were blowing 15 knots from the East and we encountered 2’ waves with very short duration. “Kaos” does not like such conditions and responded with a steady side roll. Captain was slightly queasy, so with the auto pilot in nav. mode, he went below for a short nap, leaving Susann to mind the helm. Conditions improved as we reached the shallow Yellow Bank. With watchful eyes, we monitored the depths and avoided the occasional coral head. Dropping anchor in the beautiful Allan’s Cay anchorage was the end of todays 35 mile voyage.

The anchorage was home to 12 sailboats and 4 power boats that afternoon and evening, plus a visit from one of the speed tour boats from Nassau, over to visit and feed the island iguanas. As the tour boat approached the shore, iguanas came out of the brush by the dozens.

They certainly knew where to find their next meal!
Paul and Denise celebrated their arrival in the Exumas with a magnum of champagne at happy hour aboard “Kaos”.

Due to ENE winds, the anchorage became quite rolly at high tide. Between the roll, drifting aground at low tide, and a windlass failure, causing the batteries to go flat, Denise and Paul aboard “Orion” encountered a sleepless night in this normally idyllic anchoarage.

In order to maximize tide, we upped anchor an hour before high tide, so we would be sure of sufficient depths in the shallow areas over to Highbourne Cay. Drama free, we dropped anchor in the anchorage just north of the Batelco communication tower. This was a much more comfortable anchorage. However, due to surge from the cuts at either end of Highbourne Cay, we experienced some slight roll at high tide. Once again, we were not alone here. By sunset, we counted 21 boats at anchor.

It was time for a cocktail to accompany our afternoon dinghy exploration. We checked out Highbourne Cay Marina, and enjoyed a walk along the sandy beach.

Happy hour was aboard “Kaos”, reviewing routes and anchorages with Paul and Denise, prior to their morning departure to Staniel Cay.

Alan and Susann spent the day updating and editing writing assignments for Waterway Guide, which would later be emailed from Highbourne Cay Marina.

Highbourne Marina
Today we headed into Highbourne Marina, not something we have done in the past. Since we were always heading out from Allan’’s Cay to points south.
What a gem this marina and Cay is! Highbourne Cay has recently undergone many improvements and updates, including the addition of six, new, magnificent, luxury, modern cottages, complete with every modern convenience and comfort, not to mention privacy amidst local fauna.

These properties are truly first class, and if I were in residence, I would not want to leave. Check out the website at www.highbournecaybahamas.com. In addition to the six modern cottages, Highbourne has also added two Brazilian wood houses for rent, with 360 degree wrap-around decks, and believe me, the views are stunning. Our thanks to Barbara, the outgoing Island Manager, who is retiring after 14 years, and Carolyn, the incoming Island Manager, who took us on an island tour, proudly showing us the wonderful, tasteful updates, including the new dinghy dock and newly opened Xuma Restaurant, that have occurred here at Highbourne Cay.

 Besides their gorgeous beaches, new, modern grocery and liquor store, another not to miss are the sharks and rays that feed next to the fish cleaning station at the end of the fuel dock.

Highbourne is a first class resort that welcomes boats to the marina, and cruisers at anchor to the store, fuel dock, restaurant, and just to stretch their legs ashore, staying to the designated walking trails, and respecting the privacy of residents, cottage and marina guests.

Sunset was spent enjoying another unique sunset on the beach, with our wine, of course.