We have been without strong internet connections for the past couple of weeks, so now that we have a strong signal here in Provo, Caicos Islands, I will attempt a lengthy post.
Hawks Bill Cay
”Skipper Bob” describes Hawks Bill Cay in his Bahamas cruise guide as one of the prettiest islands in the Exuma chain, and we certainly concur. The sun was shining, a gentle breeze blowing, the beaches and scenery were stunning, and if this isn’t paradise, then, I believe it’s as close as we will get.
Alan, Tim and Jan went exploring on the dinghies and visited the ruins of a Scottish settlement, complete with fresh water well. They climbed up to the cairn, situated on the highest point on the island.
After considerable sun exposure over the past few days, Susann spent a quiet day, hiding from the sun aboard Kaos.
Warderick Wells, Exumas Land and Sea Park
More paradise!
Warderick Wells is part of the Exumas National Sea Park, with Park Headquarters located here. There are two mooring fields available for a modest nightly fee. Wi-Fi is available, but only to receive and send email. Social networks, Skype and video sites are blocked.
It is rumored that the island is haunted with the restless souls that were lost in a ship wreck many years ago. A short distance from Boo Boo Hill, one can visit the Blow Holes. If the wind is blowing from the East or North East, Exuma Sound gets driven against the rocks at high tide and the spray escapes up through the blow holes. While spectacular to see, one can get quite wet at high tide on a blustery day.
American Thanksgiving was the day after we checked in to the park, and all visitors were invited to a pot luck dinner at the home of the park wardens and administrator. The fifty guests comprised park staff and volunteers, cruisers from all over, including, South Africa, France United States and Canada, as well as local Bahamian Law Enforcement officers and folks from the neighboring Bell Island. What a feast, complete with turkey and all the trimmings, baked ham, stuffed roast pork loin, salads, fresh bread and lots of desserts.The wardens’ home was simple, but gorgeous, with decking on all four sides overlooking some of the most magnificent vistas. One could elect sun or shade, breeze or shelter and always have a beautiful that I’m sure they never tire of. The following morning, we departed paradise, bound for Staniel Cay.
Staniel Cay
Staniel Cay is the first settlement that we have seen in many days, and besides the two small marinas, it is best known for Thunderball Cave. This James Bond movie, Thunderball was filmed here, hence the name. The cave, teeming with brilliant tropical fish is open at the top to daylight, but must be entered by snorkeling under the entrance at either end. Due to the very strong currents here, the safest time to enter is at slack low tide. Alan, Jan & Tim explored the cave, and were the entertainment for onlookers as they tried to hoist themselves back into the dinghy.
The Staniel Cay Yacht Club has a restaurant and bar, and free wifi, so we headed in for lunch and to catch up on email.
The local fishermen return to the dock here in the early afternoon, when the nurse sharks and rays gather under the dinghy dock, waiting for a meal as the fish are cleaned, and scraps thrown into the water.
The turkey neck followed, and the barracuda devoured the entire thing in two quick bites. No swimming off the back of the boat here!
Toucan Dream and RSVP arrived in Staniel Cay about mid afternoon after a good sail from Highbourne Cay. Upon their arrival, the crews from all four boats met for happy hour aboard Kaos, followed by a light dinner in the bar at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club.
Now that we have been joined by Toucan Dream and RSVP, it is time for that Thanksgiving dinner. During the early afternoon, the wind picked up, making the anchorage less than comfortable, and conditions were forecast to deteriorate throughout the evening, so we chose to move the boats to the shelter of Big Majors Spot, just a couple of miles away.
This is the beach where the wild pigs swim out to approaching dinghies, looking for food and treats. A great dinner was enjoyed by all, thanks to the culinary efforts of everyone
Little Farmers Cay
We departed Big Majors Spot at about 9am, bound for Little Farmers Cay, twenty odd miles south east of Staniel Cay. The seas were choppy and confused as we entered Exuma Bank, but improved as the morning wore on. The winds were blowing strong from the north east, making travel on the Exuma Sound side very uncomfortable.
What a gem! This quaint, colorful Cay was purchased from the English Crown by the two sons’ of a freed slave, who willed it to their descendants as a generation property. The descendents of Adam Brown and Michael Nixon (original owners) cannot sell the property, but can build anywhere they choose on the island, and most of the current 55 residents are descendants of Mr. Nixon and Mr. Brown.
Terri and Ernestine Bain run the Ocean Cabin Restaurant, overlooking the harbor. As we entered the restaurant, we heard a Kenny Rogers and Dolly Parton Christmas CD booming out of the stereo system. Here in the tropics, it seemed odd to be listening to Christmas songs, but we quickly realised that we were on the verge of the first of December. This particular CD seemed very fitting since it was the first Christmas music heard this year, and it is Susann and daughter Heather's tradition that Dolly Parton and Kenny Rogers' CD be played while decorating the tree.
After eating lunch, Ernestine approached the table, telling us the history and explaining the story and significance of the cay’s own flag. She announced that everyone has to join in and sing the Farmers Cay song before they leave…..oh oh!
As we headed back down to the Harbor, we found a sign that said liquor store, and upon further investigation, we discovered it was Ali’s Bar, a tiny wooden building with a table and two chairs outside, where the locals sit and play dominoes.
Thinking that they might sell bottles of rum, we ventured inside and met Ali, the owner. Wishing to patronize these small places, we ordered a couple of local beers and three shots of rum.
Ali is a descendant of the original founders and quite a character and story teller. He showed us photos of his family, proudly telling us that he fathered three sets of twins, but quit after his son fathered triplets. We inquired about purchasing lobster locally, and after a couple of calls, Ali determined there were none readily available. He made a last call to his house and next thing I knew, someone arrived at the bar with a plastic bag that he handed to Susann. It was four lobster tails from his freezer. He refused to accept any money, so we graciously accepted them and cooked them for the group happy hour. As we departed down the dock, Ali followed us with a bottle of rum and plastic cups in hand. He was greeting the local fishermen as they returned from a hard days work.
The next morning, winds had diminished substantially and we departed Little Farmers Cay about 9:00am for Georgetown. Kaos and Lamb Chop were the first to arrive, and dropped anchor just in front of the Chat N’ Chill Bar in Elizabeth Harbour. This is Bill’s favorite spot, where we all met later for a late lunch and cocktails.
It is still very early in the season here in Georgetown, with less than 60 boats at anchor, or on the new moorings. February and the Regatta are peak season, when the cruising populations swells to about five hundred boats.
Next morning was our provisioning trip by dinghy to the well stocked Exumas Market in Georgetown. This is one of the best stocked grocery stores in the Bahamas. It caters to the hundreds of cruisers who winter here, stocking items such as caviar, deli cheeses and other munchies that won’t be found any where else. The supply boats come in from Nassau on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, so with it being Thursday, the produce was fresh and plentiful, as was the dairy and bread selections.
There is a weather front approaching bringing strong winds out of the North, so we collectively decide to up anchor and move about three miles to the shelter of Red Shanks Cay.
The beach here at Red Shanks is known to many cruisers as the “Red Shanks Yacht Club”. It is obvious that many a fun time has been spent here over the years, with the rocks above the beach adorned by large conch shells painted with each yacht’s name.
We planned to spend happy hour at the Red Shanks Yacht Club, only to find the beach submerged as a result of high tide. Being a resourceful group, a quick decision was made to alter plans and move aboard Lamb Chop.
All four boats anchored in the shelter of Red Shanks Cay while the cold front blew through. RSVP has been encountering some technical problems with batteries and alternators, and is awaiting the arrival of guests in a few days, so will not be accompanying us at this time when we head further south east. A farewell pot luck lunch was held aboard RSVP, and as we relaxed later in the cockpit, Charlene discovered water in the bilges. We all jumped into action and headed to our respective boats for additional pumps. The captains were able to ascertain what the problem was and devise a fix for Bill; still not a comforting feeling to know that your boat is taking on water.
For readers of this blog who are not boaters and wonder what we do all day, let me assure you that it’s not all glam and glitter. Quite the contrary, there is always something that needs fixing, and this lunch time episode is just another example of an ordinary day in the life of the cruising community. Why do you think our boat is named Kaos?
We said our goodbyes to Bill and Charlene and then Kaos, Lamb Chop and Toucan Dream pulled anchor and departed for the two mile run to the anchorage at Fowl Cay, where we plan to get a dawn departure for Rum Cay. Due to the large ocean swells coming around both ends of the cay, it was a rolly night and none of us got much sleep.
Dawn came all too soon but seas and winds were fair, making the seven hour run to Rum Cay comfortable for all.
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