Bock Cay, Exumas to Joe's Sound, Long Island

Today was a long travel day, departing Bock Cay, Exumas about 6:30 a.m., bound for our first visit to Long Island. As expected, this was not a smooth crossing, but the seasoned travelers that we are, we found conditions quite doable. Had we had guests aboard, they might not have been comfortable.

Having no specific destination in mind, once across Exuma Sound, we opted to shorten our travel day, and heading into Joe’s Sound, south of Cape Santa Maria and Calabash Bay. We knew that the entrance to the Joe’s Sound was narrow and not to be negotiated in rough conditions, especially on a rising tide and a SW wind. Luckily, we were at slack low tide with an East wind at about 10 knots.

Susann manned the bow as lookout and with Alan’s skillful captaining, we made it safely inside, to find a huge sound, mostly dry at low tide, but with streams plenty deep enough for us and numerous other boats to anchor. Joe’s Sound offers good holding, great protection from most directions, but be wary of strong tidal currents. The entrance was not as ominous as anticipated, but still requires favorable conditions and caution for entry and departure. 

Once again, we had discovered another bit of paradise.

Once anchored, we were greeted by Pat, self-professed “Mayor” of Joe’s Sound. Pat was on his way out to dive for dinner, and returned shortly with a nice grouper and two lobsters. He was ready for a change from lobster, so graciously offered up his lobsters to Kaos and another sail boat at anchor.

Always happy to have lobster for dinner, we graciously accepted and invited Pat to join us for Happy Hour. A winter resident from New York, Pat lives aboard his houseboat and enjoys meeting the myriad of visiting cruisers. He is a generous, charming and knowledgeable man, willing to share his wealth of local knowledge.

Inside, looking towards entrance at high tide



Joe's Sound at low tide

Long Island Agricultural Expo and Mutton Fest

“Mutton or Nuttin” Festival, Clarence Town

This agricultural expo was much like a north American fall festival or local fare. The aim was to show case local agriculture and fishing, accomplishments and encourage Bahamians to become more self sufficient and less dependent on imported goods.

Due to a last minute change of venue, from Regatta Park in Salt Pond, to the Community Center in Clarence Town, the Department of Agriculture arranged bus transportation for Salt Pond attendees. The majority of the passengers were grateful cruisers anchored in Thompson Bay, Salt Pond. The bus arrived in Clarence Town about noon, to find a few booths with vendors of produce, arts and crafts some livestock and almost no visitors.

It appeared that this would be a very long 8 hours, until the bus departed back to Salt Pond. We were wrong! The crowd remained thin until mid- afternoon. The cruisers enjoyed a very informative presentation about the invasive lionfish and its impact on Bahamian waters. 

This was followed by a demonstration on how to remove the venomous spines, rendering the fish safe to handle, and delicious to eat. Students from the islands two high schools competed in a local cuisine competition. Their fare far exceeded our expectations, both in presentation and taste. These kids have a bright future in the restaurant industry.

In between competitions and demonstrations, we enjoyed some local cuisine, fresh conch salad and conch fritters, washed down with what else, but an ice cold Kalik.     

                                               

Grouper skinning and conch cleaning competitions later drew a large local audience.

 The crowd was later treated to some “rake and scrape music from “The Originals, followed by a great Bahamian singer/ entertainer “Anita”. She certainly  was a crowd pleaser. This was an enlightening and fun experience, and certainly one we would repat again.

George Town to Rudder Cut Cay & Kaos Cave

Next morning, bright and early, we bade farewell to Georgetown, heading slowly north towards Staniel Cay.  Unfortunately for our guests, it was a bumpy ride out in the Sound. Due to these less than desirable conditions, we deviated from our original plan, and re-entered the Exuma Bank at Soldier Cay, the first cut, allowing us back inside. The ride calmed almost instantly and everyone was able to enjoy a coffee and the myriad shades of blues and turquoise displayed by the ever changing water depths. Alison and John both marveled at the crystal clear waters and its magnificent hues, which photographs fail to capture.

Our route took us through the shallows around Goat Cay (Faith Hill’s island) and Darby Island, and out towards Rudder Cut Cay, where we dropped anchor to view the caves at low tide. The wind was up and the waters choppy, making for a wet dinghy ride. Due to the rough waters, Alan remained in the dinghy, letting Alison, John and myself off for the photo op.

Another "Kaos" Moment!
It was the return trip back to” Kaos”, where the chaos began! The lumpy seas made exiting the dinghy and boarding Kaos a challenge. Poor John, weebled, when he should have wobbled, and ended up falling backwards into the water. Other than being soaked, he was fine, and after recovering his sunglasses and hat, he climbed safely aboard. Once all were aboard, it was time for Susann to hoist the anchor.

Just as the neck of the anchor was coming aboard, and about to settle securly into its cradle on the bow, it disappeared, crashing down into the water below. This was an “aw shit” moment! The 66 pound anchor had separated from the chain, which is not good. Confusion and chaos reigned for some time, as we deployed an alternate anchor. In order to get this anchor to hold, we had to move the boat in closer to shore, taking us away from where the first anchor fell, once again…..not good.  John and Alan donned their swim gear and headed off in the dinghy to try and find, then retrieve the lost anchor. Susann and Alison were left aboard to tend the ship and start the engines if the alternate anchor failed to hold. Miraculously, they located the anchor within minutes, but retrieving the sixty six pound weight was another issue. Thankfully, help arrived when two men from a sail boat anchored nearby witnessed our distress and came to our rescue. Without their assistance, Alan and John would have been unable to get the heavy anchor off the bottom and into the dinghy. As it was, it was too rough for Alan to hoist himself back into the dinghy, so john drove the dinghy with the anchor, and Alan had to swim back to the boat. Here the anchor was re-attached and pulled aboard. Apparently a bolt on the anchor swivel mechanism failed. All’s well that ends well, and we weren’t out a boat unit ($1,000) for a new anchor.

The cave at Rudder Cut Cay is now referred to by us as “Kaos Cave".
Note: This photo was not taken on that fateful morning.

George Town, Great Exuma

Shortly after noon, we arrived in Elizabeth Harbour, Georgetown. Once again, it was another early departure to capitalize on tides and wind. The ride south was pretty benign with a moderate swell from the east and wind on our stern from the north east. Our original plan was to stop at Emerald Bay Marina for breakfast and update facility for Waterway Guide. Once we made the turn into their channel, we had wind broad side and rage with wind against tide, making for an unpleasant ride into the marina basin. Upon arrival, we learned that the only restaurant was a healthy walk to the resort. The dock assigned to tie up for a couple of hours was untenable, so we aborted the visit and headed toward Georgetown. It was the start of Regatta week and we expected a very busy harbor, but learned that there were somewhere between 250 – 300 boats at anchor, a far cry from 600 boats just a few years prior.

After anchoring just west of Monument and Hamburger Beach, we launched the dink and headed to “Chat-N-Chill for a burger and beer. Following lunch, we went across to Lake Victoria and Exuma Market for some supplies. The produce supply boat comes into port on Thursday and the dairy/grocery ship arrives from Nassau on Monday.

Next day, we checked out “Club Peace and Plenty”, a charming historic landmark and hotel, where we had lunch and met a couple of Canadian sailors from Manitoba. They were aboard the catamaran “Midori” and had recently retired from Winnipeg to a small southern rural community, close to the US border. Lunch was delicious and the view from the pool patio, out across the harbor to the Monument and our anchorage picturesque.

We decided that we would meet John and Alison here for lunch when they arrived from Canada.

After our trip to town, we decided a walk and some exercise was in order and headed to the beach to try the trail up to the monument. It was a lovely easy climb with a brisk east wind to keep us cool as we ascended. The last segment was a little more challenging as we climbed the last few steps, cut out of the rock, but still well within our capabilities.

The view from the top was exhilarating.

We could see all the anchorages around the harbor.

Alison and John arrived the following blustery afternoon, and were blown away, (no pun intended) by the stunning turquoise waters. We enjoyed a poolside lunch, before making the wet trek across the harbor, back to the boat.

Regatta was in full swing now, and today was the “in harbour race”. It was warm and sunny, with plenty of sail boat fuel. There were about 30 boats competing in various classes, and we would have a good vantage point as the course took them through the harbor and anchorages. The dinghy and kayak were both in the water, leaving the deck empty enough for four lawn chairs and a patio table.

Listening to the commentary on the VHF radio, we enjoyed lunch up on the roof, watching the races. It was a fun afternoon and certainly something different for us. Later in the afternoon, we joined the revelers for the “sundowner” reception at St. Francis Resort, where we met many racers and spectators. All in all, a great day!

Rudder Cut Cay

Today was a short run from Little Farmer’s Cay to wherever took our fancy, which turned out to be Rudder Cut Cay. There are some neat caves on the south western shore. There are several anchorage spots with varying depths, and since there was a German catamaran in our desired location, we chose not to crowd them or interrupt their serenity. We dropped anchor in the bay just north, adjacent to one of the caves.

 We were alone in this delightful anchorage, separated from the neighboring catamaran by a small point of land, with a cave on either side. Never the less, we could not see one and other and could have been a world apart.

Shortly after dropping anchor, we set out to explore in the dinghy, commencing with the cave on the far side of the point. Rudder Cut Cay is privately owned, with large red lettered “no trespassing” signs everywhere. As we approached the second cave, we were greeted by two barking dogs on the beach. The cave is some distance from the beach, so other than the incessant barking, they were no threat as we visited the cave.

It was low tide, and unlike the previous cave, this one had an exposed sand floor, with the approach being sand all the way in. The sandstone (I believe) ceiling had several skylights through to the sunlight above.

This cave certainly had lots of character, and was easy and safe to visit.

As we departed the cave, we were approached by two cruisers in their dinghy. They were Mike and Ann aboard sailing vessel “Beans”, and were looking to find someone willing to take some freshly caught lobster off their hands……….hello, look no further! We were more than willing to help out. Mike loves to dive for them, but they had eaten lobster five nights in a row and wanting to eat the crab he caught. After drifting and chatting, we learned they were Canadians from the Sharbot Lake area, not far from Ottawa.

Thanks to their kindness and generosity, our planned dinner was put on hold, and we feasted on three fresh lobster.

Compass Cay

Sea conditions this morning, combined with gusting winds, put an end to ou rsnorkel visit to Rocky Dundas Caves, the Coral Garden and Sea Aquarium. A consensual decision was
made to continue heading south.

As we departed Cambridge Cay, we passed Bell Island, home of Aga Khan. Bell Island is part of the Exuma Land and Sea Park, a “no-take” zone, set up to preserve and protect land and sea life, as well as preserve the cays in their natural state for generation s to come. Obviously money talks………loud and clear! Even the Bahamian fishermen are prohibited from fishing, conching and lobstering within park boundarie, yet this billionaire can dredge the seabed to provide a marina for his mega yachts. We find this offensive, and what he has done to the topography and natural island beauty is obscene. The Bahamian governments, both current and past should be ashamed, selling out for one hundred million dollars. One wonders what benefit the average Bahamiam derived from all this?

 We have heard reports of cruisers anchoring off Bell Island and being told “we would prefer you not be here” and offered a bottle of wine to move. How cheap do they think we are…………a case or two and we might negotiate (just kidding). The standing joke now is to just head over to Bell Island and say “I'm here to collect my wine”.

Our first stop was Compass Cay, where we dinghied in to the marina for a burger and beer for lunch and to see the pet nurse sharks. Compass Cay Marina is a funky, remote place, operated by Tucker Rolle.

We were warmly welcomed and assisted with tie-up of the dink. The fishermen (Tucker’s sons) had just gone out for conch and Tucker (lunch cook) was down with a headache. We were invited to visit the beautiful beaches and when the fishermen returned in about 45 minutes, we could have lunch.

Hot and hungry, we returned to the marina after enjoying their beach. Upon our return, we found that Tucker was still not feeling right, and boat owners were cooking their own lunch on the dock grill. Captain Kaos agreed to cook for us, while we watched the sharks. Some folks were swimming with the sharks, and after lunch, it was my intent to swim with them and film it for the grand kids.

In the meantime, the sharks were being fed hot dogs, which they love, and they will come right up to the dock and beg for more, sometimes, spitting water at you.

The fishermen returned and proceeded to clean their catch of conch and lobster, throwing the scraps to the sharks, who, by this time, were in a feeding frenzy.
Suzanne and Dave took a dip to cool off before lunch, but didn’t venture in too far. By the time we had eaten lunch, the fishermen had returned and were busy cleaning the catch. I certainly was not going swimming at this time, maybe next time.

That’s some catch! They were only out for about an hour, but they certainly know where to go!

After our shark fix, and with full bellies, we upped anchor and headed to Sampson Cay for a few supplies from the store and overnight anchorage.

Bell Rock & Cambridge Cay

Cambridge Cay, Exuma Park

This morning, consensus was to head to Cambridge Cay, still in the Exuma Land and Sea Park and just a few miles South. We have not stopped at Cambridge before, but had been told that the snorkeling was quite magnificent.

Upon arrival, we picked up a mooring ball, but could not see the pay box. The Park Warden later cruised by and directed us to a small island, with the pay box behind the Exuma Park sign. After completing the registration, we deposited the requisite $20.

The tide was low, exposing a sandy causeway connecting a chain of small islands.  We were surprised to find the sand was coarse and hard on the feet.

From the boat, we could see a large rock “Bell Rock” on the Exuma Sound side and dinghied to the beach and trail across to the Sound side. The trail was short, and the beach and rock were awesome.

The sand on this side was like powdered sugar.  Being open to the Sound, there is much more wave action to grind the sand. Suzanne, an avid sea glass gatherer was in seventh heaven when she found some sea hash, where the waves had tumbled and deposited shells and glass that surges around Bell Rock.  She was delighted with the windfall of treasures.

As usual, we returned to the boat for sunset and “Happy Hour.

Exuma Land & Sea Park

Hog Cay

As per normal, when a front comes through, the North mooring field was full and Emerald Rock moorings would not be comfortable due to wind direction. We were able to get a mooring ball in Hog Cay, which was reasonably sheltered, but reaching the park office by dinghy was untenable in these breezy conditions. We hunkered down for a quiet day as the clouds moved in and temperatures dropped. We spent the next 3 days in Warderick Wells, changing mooring fields daily as the wind directions changed. Day one was spent in Hog Cay (south mooring field), day two in Emerald Rock and day three in the North mooring field.

We were awakened in Hog Cay with the seas rolling in through the cut, and we opted to move over to Emerald Rock, since no-one was departing the North moorings. Day three, conditions improved considerably and many boats departed, freeing up plenty of moorings in the North mooring field, adjacent to park headquarters. This meant internet service once again.

We hiked across Banshee Creek, and up the trail to Boo Boo Hill and the blow holes.. It was low tide and consequently, there was little activity at the blow hole. Regardless, the view from Boo oo Hill was mesmerizing. Boo Boo Hill gets its name from the locals, who claim that on a moonlit night they hear the cries of souls lost at sea. Today, it is better known for the driftwood momentos that cruisers deposit to mark their visit. A few years ago, there was a large assortment of creative momentos, but today, in keeping with the park's conservation practices, only driftwood artifacts are permitted. All others will be removed.

Dave and Suzanne visited the blow holes and hiked some of the island trails. In their absence, we were again visited by our little bird friend, who we learned is a Bananaquit and not a warbler. Susann treated him to some finely crushed cashews, which he obviously enjoyed, letting her hold the feeding container as he perched on the edge and chowed down

Susann treated him to some finely crushed cashews, which he obviously enjoyed, letting her hold the feeding container as he perched on the edge and chowed down.

Today was a beautiful day here in paradise. The North wind still had a coolness about it, and with the approach of sunset, temperatures were a bit chilly. Regardless, we donned sweaters and spent Happy Hour ashore with “Stinky” the sperm whale carcass on “Power Beach”.

As sunset approached, there were some very neat and interesting cloud formations in the sky. The evening sky colours continued to intensify, and were truly magnificent as we returned to Kaos, and darkness approached rapidly.

Shroud Cay

   Shroud Cay

We arrived at Shroud Cay around noon, and Alan, Dave & Suzanne took the dinghy and went sightseeing to Allan’s Cay to feed the iguanas, and then on to Highbourne Cay to see the pet sharks and finally to Norman’s Cay to visit the mostly submerged plane wreck from the drug running era of Carlos Leder.

Upon the return of the sightseers, we enjoyed Happy Hour ashore at our private little beach, just north of the moorings on Shroud Cay.

An early morning start was planned for next morning, so we could capitalize on a rising high tide for our planned dinghy trip through the mangrove channels and out to the Sound side of the island. With the approach of a cold front, the wind shifted to the southwest overnight, making our anchorage rolly and uncomfortable. None of us slept well, especially as we encountered an extremely low tide, due to a full moon, causing Kaos to bump the sandy bottom for a couple of hours in the middle of the night. Winds continued to build and we continued to roll. Consensus was to abort the dinghy trip and seek a more comfortable anchorage. We ventured a few miles north to the south anchorage on Norman’s Cay, which was already pretty full, and some sailors were less than pleased that we would drop an anchor anywhere close to them. We ventured over to the lonely power boat, but found conditions less than comfortable. We opted to head south on the Exuma Sound side, (hoping to find calmer seas) to Warderick Wells, looking for a mooring ball. As per normal, when a front comes through, the North mooring field was full and Emerald Rock moorings would not be comfortable. We were able to get a mooring ball in Hog Cay, which was reasonably sheltered, but reaching the park office by dinghy was untenable in these breezy conditions.

We hunkered down for a quiet day as the clouds moved in and temperatures dropped.

Staniel Cay & Big Majors Spot, Northern Exumas

Staniel Cay

Following a few busy days in Farmer’s Cay,and Super Bowl, aboard “Kaos” with Paul and Denise from “Orion” we departed Farmer’s for Black Point. As we neared Black Point, we were able to determine that the harbour was very full. Upon approach, we counted no less tha 40 boats at anchor, most awaiting the arrival of the next supply boat. We determined that the laundromat would be full, as would the dinghy dock and Lorraine’s Café. The decision was made to hit Black Point on our return and head straight for Staniel Cay, where we would await the arrival of our guests, Dave and Suzanne.

We anchored between the Yacht Club and “Thunderball” Cave, and spent much of the day washing the boat and catching up on emails etc., now that we once again had reasonable internet

The following day was spentpreparing for our guests arrival on the 8^th. Low tide that afternoon was about 1:30 pm, and Susann expressed an interest in snorkelling “Thunderball” Cave, the sight of filming of the James Bond movie “Thunderball”. Susann is claustrophobic with anything over her face, but wanted to see the schools of tropical fish within the cave.Low, slac tide is the best time to visit, since the cave entranceis accessible without diving under water, and one is not fighting ocean current. We took a small container of bread crumbs in with us and when Alan released them into the water, we were surronded by hundreds of beautiful fish. The top of the cave is open to the sunlight, which makes the waters and fish sparkle.

Although Susann did not stay long inside the cave, she did it and enjoyed nature at it’s best!

The following morning, Susann was awakened by the diesel engines of the fast approaching freight boat. Everywhere was abuzz with activity and the cruisers were excited that fresh fruits and veggies, would once again be available in the stores, for at least, a few hours.

Isle’s General Store, near the airport,  also known as the yellow store, announced on VHF 16 that produce had arrived, and they were open for business. We walked over, to find the dinghy dock crammed with dinks, and Miss Vivian’s store a hive of activity, with cruisers stuffing their bags with all the fresh foods they could carry. It was reminiscent of the fishermen cleaning their catch on the dock and throwing the skin and carcass’ to the waiting nurse sharks and rays, who were ready to fight and devour every morsel. Sixty some odd dollars later, we departed with everything on our list, except bananas. We were not fast enough and the case emptied within minutes.

Returning to the boat, docked at the Yacht Club, we awaited the arrival of Dave and Suzanne, and a late lunch at the restaurant.

It’s Alan’s birthday today. After a visit to “Thunderball Cave”, where Dave & Suzanne snorkeled and fed the fish, we headed to Big Major’s Spot, just a couple of miles away.

After securely setting the anchor, we headed off in the dinghy to feed and photograph the swimming pigs. As boats approach the beach, the adult pigs swim out, looking for treats. We had some old macadamia nuts and apple pieces, which they quickly devoured.

The piglets remained on shore, disappearing into the bushes until the adults returned to shore.

From pig beach, we moved to the party beach on Big Major’s Spot. Some generous cruisers have donated several picnic tables and built a bar, complete with indelible marker for visitors to sign their names.

A large fire pit has been built, surrounded with bench seating and complete with a fire extinguisher. Thanks to whoever, for their thoughtfulness and generosity.

Now it is up to us, visiting cruisers to enjoy and take care of the beach.

Back aboard “Kaos”, sunset was enjoyed over cocktails and Alan’s birthday celebrated with a steak & lobster dinner, followed by chocolate cake and cognacs under the stars.

Little Farmer's Cay, Northern Exumas

Little Farmer’s Cay

Arrived in Little Farmer’s Cay on Thursday, just ahead of the start of the 26^th Annual 5 F’s Festival (First Friday in February, Farmer’s Cay Festival), featuring the “Class C” sailing regatta. Early Friday morning, on a rising tide, the “Captain C” arrived through the Cut, with Bahamian music blaring, and loaded with visitors returning back home to the island. In addition to the passengers, the ship was carrying some of the regatta competitors, and more importantly, their sailing vessels. It certainly was an exciting and fitting start to this (61 inhabitants) little cay’s festival.

Between the two anchorages, we counted at least 75 boats (sail and power) at anchor, and awaiting the festivities.

In addition to the two races on both Friday and Saturday, there was an abundance of loud Bahamian music at the airport and around the fishing harbor, and lots of local cuisine, with “Kalik” (Bahamian beer) and rum punch.

We enjoyed our morning coffee, watching the freighter, docked at the yacht club, unload the sail boats.

Later, we headed into the village, where the daily domino game was in full swing, outside of Ali’s Bar. The locals take their domino game very seriously, slamming their tile on the table (until now, I did not know that this was a contact sport).

The airport was a hub of activity, with the races going on, and on Saturday, they set up the trophies, and they sure don’t mess around, everything is better in the Bahamas!

When they award a trophy here in the Bahamas, they award a trophy!

The local spirit was infectious, right down to “Mr. Bahamas”, Frank from Nassau, and one of the race sponsors, who flies in every year to lend his support. He certainly was a dapper dresser, who made the rest of us “beach bums” feel somewhat under dressed for the occasion.

It was really neat to see these racing vessels up close, and in full action. They were surprisingly fast and agile

Most of them had a four man crew, who, when needed, would hang out over the water, providing the weight, where necessary.

In addition to all the excitement out on the water, the local Exumas Marching Band arrived to perform for the crowd. Adjacent to the airport runway, they gave a stellar performance, with small planes taking off, right alongside.

It was neat to see no security lines. No check-ins. Just walk right off the beach, and board your flight, and on this festival day, watch the marching band perform alongside the runway.

All in all, a great couple of days with a real Bahamian flavor!

Little Farmer’s Cay is a real favourite of ours, and well worth a visit, especially during the 5 “F” Festival.